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TR6 'nother question about the diff on a tr6

jackag91

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Again the car is a 73 tr6.

I am trying to remove the drive and propeller shafts from the flanges. THe final effort is to remove the hypoid case.

I am running into 2 problems.

1. My wrenches seem to be a bit loose on the nuts and bolts. These cars don't have witworth bolts on them. Do they?

2. I can' seem to generate enough torque on the bolts to break them. Any suggestions?
 
Make sure and use a 6 sided socket, try metric or standard, which ever size gives the tightest fit. Put a wriench on one side to hold it still and then, I used a socket wrench with a 3 ft pipe to brake them loose. Make sure to let some penetrating oil work on the threads for a while. If that doesn't work hitting a wrench that is on the nut with a hammer, creates an impact effect and works, if you don't have an impact wrench.

Good luck
 
I wrestled with my flange nuts for about a week before I went to Sears and bought the longest spanners they have - (called extreme force or some such nonsense) they are about 4 inches longer than a standard 9/16 spanner and using that and a normal length spanner I got the nuts loose in about 10 minutes.

Hope that helps
Alistair
 
I don't think you can get a socket on there. They need 9/16" wrenches (2 of them). You should be able to put one on the bolt in such a position that when you start to undo the nut it will rotate and jam on something and hold the bolt. You might be able to lengthen your wrench by slipping a pipe over it, probably better off getting a longer one though as stated above. Good luck. Pete
 
You won't be able to get a closed spanner on one end, probably the bolt end. No room. Use the closed box on the nut, use a longer wrench, and wear leather gloves. It won't hurt as much.
They will break. Just grunt.
 
I had same prob on my drive flages, just not enough room to get a socket on both sides & a long handle. Had my wife pick up a long handled combo box wrench with an offset at Sears & that did the trick.

Nothing like torque; thats why we like the 6's don't we??
 
"They need 9/16" wrenches (2 of them)"

A week ago I started to replace the driveshaft
U-joints.

The 9/16" open end goes on the bolt head.
The 9/16" box head goes on the nut.

Counter rotate against each other.
I have a piece of pipe about 18" long
with one end flattened (hammer smashed)
so my wrenches will fit inside.

I used the leverage pipe on the nuts and they
broke free fairly easily.

Throw away the old bolts and nuts and replace
with SAE 8 and Locktite.

If something appears loose fitting in American
sized wrenches, try metric for a tighter fit.
My car has as many metric as it has American-DPOs!!

d
 
Just a suggestion, but when you get the diff off, I suggest you open up the case - it's just 8 bolts - and get the old oil out of there - I did this last night and it was some nasty old oil! You could probably get most out by holding the diff on its side with the fill plug out, but it was so close to sludge that I would imagine some will remain using that method. Of course you then need a new gasket, and while you have it off you might as well clean it up and paint it, and maybe you could change the seals...

Cheers
Alistair
 
Thanks for all of the help. I finally got it off. Of course one of the nuts stripped. Ended up going to sears to buy one of there stripped nut wrenchs.

-side story-
while I was at sears I took a minute to look through thier scratch and dent/return resales. I found one of thier 283 piece sets (Retail $269) with out a price tag. So I asked the guy how much it was. He said, "$100" I countered with a half hearted "that the best you can do?"...."HOw about $75."

Got it home and everything was there, still in the bags..but it is missing one drawer for the tool box.

- back on track

So I got the diff out. Like AListair suggested, I am going to clean it up and repaint it. (suggestion welcome on the paint)

But now I can't get the drive axels off. I removed the 6 nuts that Bentley's tells you about. But that thing won't move.
 
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