Noob Dallas GA and my 6

[JoelH]

Hey everybody, my name's Joel. I'm a noob here and I Just picked up an Emerald Green 72 TR6 to restore. Runs but the slave cylinder is stuck so it doesn't drive. Surprisingly little rust and no frame damage. It looks like the only panel I'll have to replace will be the driver side floor pan. As for the rest of the body, there is some rust starting in but no blistering, lifting, or flaking anywhere. The frame has some rust on it as well but no rusted out parts, not even at the swing-arm attachment. Already have it on its way to being stripped down to body. I've got the floor pan on order, a few pints of rust treatment in hand, and days of sanding in. Treating the rust and repairing a few dings along the way. Just getting started. Picked it up locally for a good deal. I probably could've found one a little cheaper or paid a little more for a more readily operable one but overall I believe would've run into much more work restoring it than I have on hand here.

Basically I've been keeping an eye out for a good project TR6 for a while to do a complete rebuild/mild restomod. My dad did a 76 when I was young that, shortly after being finished, got totaled in a hit and run by an ass bag in an iroc-z. It was Signal Red with some tasteful mods lined up body work mostly stock looking, but fast as ****. I always thought that it was the coolest car ever made. I consulted him a lot about this car throughout the process of looking at it and buying it, and he's helping me restore it. I'll probably finish this one in British Racing Green and Tan interior and top. Maybe some kind of stripe across the hood or down the side...

:indecisiveness:



Anyway, The Bumper bars are for sale/trade (if you have plain bumpers I'll trade you assembly's) The rear bar is bent from rolling back into a 4 wheeler before I got the car, bumper is fine. Any offer on those.

Also I'm not sure about the gauges. If I want to refresh them and find a Volt meter, or replace theme with AM or VDO black faced gauges. I'm open to offers, trades, suggestions on those as well.

Wire wheels are out. As far as I know they're original option - knock offs. I'll trade wheels, knock offs, and hub adapters for some konig rewinds, or similar minilite style wheels, steel wheels, or retro 4 spoke racing style wheels. As long as I can clean them up condition is not relevant. Or sell for a decent cash price... What's fair what are they worth? A little rusty but useable.

More info on that:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf...ire-wheels-KO-w-adapter-hub-amp-Smiths-Gauges

 

[LarryK]

Welcome aboard. Lots of Triumphs here with some of the best knowledge you can tap.

 

[TR3driver]

I'm a fan of keeping original (looking) gauges if possible, but obviously it's your car. It should please you, not me. If you are interested, there is a way to make the ammeter work with a higher output alternator without hitting the stop. You just add a length of wire (or particular size and length) across the ammeter terminals, so part of the current goes through the wire. This is my version, for a 60 amp alternator on a TR3


Don't forget that the wheel studs have been shortened for the wire wheel adapters. If you convert to steel (or aftermarket alloy) wheels, you'll need to install the longer studs for safety. Also, original steel wheels are very often bent or cracked, so check them out carefully.

Oh, and welcome to the asylum!

 

[aeronca65t]

Welcome! Glad you've checked out the difficult swing-arm area already....sounds like a good basis for a resto.

Have fun!