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A stock dynamo/generator will at least be easy to test (3 tests actually, all using a simple multimeter). If you do install the generator you will probably not want the belt real tight. Works fine with a slightly slack belt and much less strain on the bearings in the generator & H2O pump.
 
Drooartz, Sorry, I've been gone for a few days and am just catching up on this thread. Please explain something to me regarding your 9/30 post. You say you measured the voltage at the lamp connection and found it pulsing up around +10v?

I've heard of this once before so bear with me as I describe that previous event. A guy in the U.K. had learned that the voltage stabilizer gives out a steady, regulated +10v for the temperature and fuel gauges. He thought this controlled voltage would work better for his alternator indicator lamp also. Instead of supplying the field coils for the alternator with full battery voltage (as Lucas intended) he was supplying the alternator with 10v. It wasn't enough to fully pull in the coils and start charging.

Since your car was converted by a previous owner, perhaps he did the same. Please check your wiring to the alternator and charge lamp. From memory, the charge lamp (and coil) are powered by a white wire coming off the ignition switch. The other side of the charge lamp wiring (small brown/yellow wire) should go the indicator lamp connection on the alternator. If your wiring to the alternator is coming from the voltage stabilizer instead, this could be your problem.
 
Here is the basic wiring diagram for the Delco 10SI conversion. It shows the #2 connection jumped right from the Batt terminal of the alternator, but we know, that it should go directly to the battery, or at least the starter solenoid connection. You have already done that. The rest of the charging system diagram will apply to the TR. Just make sure that there are no other impediments along the way as dklawson has mentioned.

Unless you want to have the TR4 stock, there is no reason to abandon the Delco alternator. It's a good unit, and reasonably priced replacements are available if that's what you need. A new regulator for the TR generator will cost at least as much as a 10SI unit from the parts store or the internet.

Just do me a favor first, and make sure that the wiring is correct, and that the belt is tight enough. Alternators require a bit more tension then that 22 amp generator that was originally on the car.
 
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If your wiring to the alternator is coming from the voltage stabilizer instead, this could be your problem.

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I did look at this once, and thought it looked wired correctly. I certainly reserve the right to be wrong! What an adventure this has been...

I'll try to get a tighter belt in there, and look through the wiring one more time. Thanks to martx-5 for the nice, clear diagram. I'll be back at it later in the week to see if I can get this puppy figured out. I go back and forth on keeping the alternator. I tend to like simple and original, but if I can get the thing working as is, I'll be happy.

-Drew
 
In this case... keeping it simple and keeping it original are contradictory. When properly installed, the alternator is a much more reliable setup and the wiring is simpler. The control box and generator are a smoke and mirrors thing... at least to me. I've never been able to adjust them correctly!
 
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