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Hi all! I am a newbie and just bought a 62 3000 MK11 BT7. Car has been partially restored and I am trying to remove Steering Wheel. The wheel is a non-adjustable type. I have the horn push, turn signal assy with wiring and stator tube completely removed. Then I was able to remove large 1-1/2 in. nut and cancelling arm. Now the problem.... tapped back of wheel and it freed itself .... but only for about a half inch. Now the wheel itself is moving up and down on what I believe is the inner column. It seems to hit a stop because when pulling and pushing the wheel is very free but will NOT come any further. There is no circlip evident. I cannot see any way to free it. I do not see what it could be hitting up against.Any help would be appreciated. I am going crazy!! Do I need to force it with a puller? Thanks.
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Non adjustable steering wheel removal
- Thread starter Pete3000
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BlueRidge1
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Pete, Do like Keoke say's, it should come off easy with a puller at this point. Anyone out there know of a source for the tunsignal indicater knob that is on the non ajustable steering wheels? I would like to replace mine as it is pretty ragged looking. Thanks Bob 61 - 62 mk11
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Hi Pete,
The bottom of the hub splines develops a burr which will not let the wheel come off. You can slide it up & down all day & not get past the burr. The factory shop manual shows a puller. The puller consists of a split "clamshell" that fits behind the wheel hub, some puller bolts, & a top section that bears on the end of the steering shaft.
Be careful about damaging the very thin wall section on the end of the shaft. I would machine a small stepped plug to fit down into the shaft bore for the puller to bear against. If you screw up the threads, you are in real trouble.
I was in a hurry to replace the wheel & just cut the hub into two pieces. Even then, it was hard to get the separated pieces off of the spline. When I finally got the hub off, the burrs were obvious. In retrospect, I would have taken whatever time needed to get or make a proper puller. A pic of the hub is attached.
Good luck,
D
The bottom of the hub splines develops a burr which will not let the wheel come off. You can slide it up & down all day & not get past the burr. The factory shop manual shows a puller. The puller consists of a split "clamshell" that fits behind the wheel hub, some puller bolts, & a top section that bears on the end of the steering shaft.
Be careful about damaging the very thin wall section on the end of the shaft. I would machine a small stepped plug to fit down into the shaft bore for the puller to bear against. If you screw up the threads, you are in real trouble.
I was in a hurry to replace the wheel & just cut the hub into two pieces. Even then, it was hard to get the separated pieces off of the spline. When I finally got the hub off, the burrs were obvious. In retrospect, I would have taken whatever time needed to get or make a proper puller. A pic of the hub is attached.
Good luck,
D
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Hi Keoke,
You are probably correct. The hub splines overhang the shaft splines when the hub is fully seated. Any slight working of the joint during use will likely raise this burr. At the time, I was so disgusted that I just put the new wheel on & forgot about it. Now, I'm not about to remove the turn signal assembly & wiring to get the wheel back off for modification. Maybe next time, if there IS a next time.
D
You are probably correct. The hub splines overhang the shaft splines when the hub is fully seated. Any slight working of the joint during use will likely raise this burr. At the time, I was so disgusted that I just put the new wheel on & forgot about it. Now, I'm not about to remove the turn signal assembly & wiring to get the wheel back off for modification. Maybe next time, if there IS a next time.
D