TR2/3/3A Noise from clutch area?

[Snowkilts]

Suddenly hearing a noise from the clutch area on my 3A. Sounds like water running under pressure. Only happens when the clutch pedal is depressed. Any ideas? Time for a new throwout bearing? I tried to capture it:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-FWSGYXRGmMAzMEHh-DCBHiYQU13FHEJ

 

[CJD]

Did you change the fluid in your tranny recently?

 

[Deleted member 8987]

why would the type of lubricant inside the transmission show up as a noise when the clutch pedal is depressed?
Carbon T/O bearing still?
Starts as soon as you press the pedal and take the free-play out, or does it start when pedal is almost fully depressed?
T/O for first, pilot for second.
Generally.
Speakers on this Toshiba not qualified to discern the subject of the link.

 

[Snowkilts]

Did you change the fluid in your tranny recently?

Nope. TBH I'm not sure I've ever changed it. I check it once in a while.

But the noise happens when I step on the clutch, so the trans is not moving. No noise when I let the clutch out.

Also, it doesn't matter if the car is moving or not. The video was with the car not moving.

 

[Snowkilts]

Carbon T/O bearing still?

What do you mean?

Starts as soon as you press the pedal and take the free-play out, or does it start when pedal is almost fully depressed?

Not sure about that. I'll have to try it again.

 

[Snowkilts]

I just changed the permissions on the video file if anybody had trouble accessing it. Hopefully you can see it now. Sorry about that.

 

[CJD]

Definitely the throwout bearing. In the early stages the noise may come and go. Towards the end it will get constant and louder. If it were mine, I’d put it on my long term “to do” list. It could go for a year or more before getting serious.

 

[Snowkilts]

If it were mine, I’d put it on my long term “to do” list.

Thanks. I'll probably make it my winter project for this year.

 

[Graham H]

Definitely need to change the T.O bearing, I wouldn't go too far from home until you do.

 

[sp53]

The question now is do you want pull the trany out from the top or pull the engine and trany together. Kinda depends on how nice the car is if you want to remove the apron or the seats. The car looks nice from what I can see, and then I would probably pull the seats. That bearing sound wore out. If it only made a little noise in neutral sitting, I would wait, but that is heavy metal.
steve

 

[STeve 1958]

If you can get some lub. to it it might last a year longer.

Dumb comment...."your tach is on the right, mine is on the left." Was that intentional ?

 

[Snowkilts]

If you can get some lub. to it it might last a year longer.

Dumb comment...."your tach is on the right, mine is on the left." Was that intentional ?

Would pretty much have to pull it to get lube to it, wouldn't I?

Tach is where it was when I got the vehicle. No idea which is correct. Don't trust the PO further than I can throw him though.

Edit: for fun I just looked at Bill Piggots book. He says the speedo is "usually" on the left, but sometimes they were reversed. So I guess both are correct.

 

[TomMull]

The question now is do you want pull the trany out from the top or pull the engine and trany together. Kinda depends on how nice the car is if you want to remove the apron or the seats. The car looks nice from what I can see, and then I would probably pull the seats. That bearing sound wore out. If it only made a little noise in neutral sitting, I would wait, but that is heavy metal.
steve

The seats usually come out without protest. If the 3 screws on the bottom of the rails won't come out, take the bottom cushions out and unscrew the nuts that go on the studs that come up through the pans. IMO the transmission comes out easily this way and goes back in with some difficulty but usually not too much. And that's if it doesn't have an overdrive. If it does, I'd look for a strong helper or consider the engine/transmission option. (I've seen some engine cranes modified to lift the thing in the confined space under the dash)
The front apron is not difficult to remove as long as the bolts and nuts are not rusty but it's a challenge to remove and replace the apron without scratching or bending something. And you also have the exhaust, electrical, fuel and cooling systems to deal with. Far better if you can get it out through the inside.
Tom

 

[Snowkilts]

Far better if you can get it out through the inside.
Tom

I agree. I will go at it from the inside. I've had the apron off twice but it's a job.

My big worry is the condition of the floorpans and rockers when I get the carpet out. The PO did a rather slapdash "restoration" which I have been turning a blind eye to in order to keep it on the road. I know there's some fiberglass in there. And some wood. :nightmare:

 

[sp53]

I can dig that--- honesty is great thing. I am going to put some por 15 down on this one because it is an all-weather driver.

 

[DavidApp]

Having just acquired an OD transmission I am faced with the decision change from inside or out the front. Being on my own I will probable go out the front.

David

 

[Graham H]

David,

I changed my gearbox on my own using my lifting bar but you may need to take the steering wheel off I don't have that problem because all the controls are on the right-hand side of my car. If you go from inside don't forget to tie the clutch lever forward to the bell housing because it tends to get caught on the floor turn up when putting the box back in.

Graham
upside down again

 

[TomMull]

Clever arrangement Graham. I flipped the image below:

 

[CJD]

For just the throwout bearing I found going from the inside to be the lesser work. The tunnel is easier to remove than the apron.

The early speedos were on the left in the US. Later they moved the speedo right so the navigater could see it in road rallying.

 

[sp53]

I have pulled them and reinstalled them myself from the top. I used simple come- a –long from the rafter as close to balance point of the trans as I could it and that took up a lot of the weight, no od. Sometimes you will need to unhook the exhaust at the engine to let engine down some in the back and naturally support the engine somehow. I would not trust a hydraulic jack long, so I use a scissor jack to lower and raise the engine in the back.

Today I would get some help probably, but back in day I would crawl under the car and lift and fettle with most the tail shaft looped and balanced at the come-a- long. Or make one of those cool deals like Graham has, but did not about that then.