No Valve Cover Breather - Alloy Valve Covers

[MikeAH100M]

I've noticed in several BN1 and BN2 engines (ie Coroner Crème BN1 for sale in the Netherlands) with alloy valve covers with no breather tube connection to the carbs or a breather filler cap on the valve cover. Is this an acceptable practice or will it create problems?

 

[pan]

I have an Australian made Lynx alloy valve cover on my 100. It has the breather incorporated in the filler cap. Perhaps the car pictured has something similar?

 

[RandyHicks]

"Pan" is correct.The original finned valve cover, as pictured (with 9 rows of fins), had the breather built into the "206" filer cap.

The valve cover pictured does not have the correct cap and doesn't look like there is a breather which could be an issue.

Ray Juncal's repro cover also has the breather built into the cap. Advance Auto sells a cap that fits perfectly, looks very similar and has the breather built in for less than $10. Unfortunately traveling right now and don't have the part number with me. Contact me off forum and I'll send it in a couple weeks if you need it.

Randy

 

[moremonkey]

The car in the picture also looks like it hasn't got its heater connected. (I'm sensitive to the issue since I just picked up new heater hose to replaced the tired ones on my BN1.) It certainly looks tidy without those hoses.

-Jonathan

 

[vette]

Hi Mike, I have never been around a BN1 or 2, but I believe they have road draft tubes. And should have a vented cap on the valve cover. This would be the most ideal arrangement in leu of not having an enclosed crankcase at all. .....! You'll note that on the 3000's the tee at the top of the valve cover with the hose going to the rear carb and the other side of the tee going to the lifter side cover, the hose going to the rear carb is acting as a two way street allowing air to move into and out of the crankcase. This is not an ideal situation because in reality there is very little circulation. Just venting and not very efficient. If a BN1 is running with a non-vented valvecover cap, it's crankcase ventilation would be about as good or better than an original spec 3000 because the crankcase would be able to be vented by the road draft tube on the lifter side cover which I would suspect would have less restriction than the original spec 3000 engine. With a vented cap the BN1 would have a very traditional and adequate crankcase ventilation. With a non-vented cap it would be not so good but with an open road draft tube at least it would have a vent.
When I put the engine back in my BJ7 recently I decided to change the crankcase ventilation system just alittle bit. I removed the hose between the tee at the top of the valvecover and the rear carb and installed a small K & N filter on the tee end. Ever since I did that I have had no drip from my rear main seal as is traditional for our LBC marking their territory. Dave C.

 

[MikeAH100M]

Thanks Dave and Randy. I am going with the breather caps. I received the following note from Ray Juncal on not only the breather caps that he uses From Adance Auto but the very nice knurled knobs that he makes to hold down his valve cover. The Netherlands Healey uses the original nuts that don't I think detract from the appearance of the alloy cover. At least they should be chromed. Ray said that he " uses the "CST" brand breather caps #8064 from "Autozone". CSTis an Israeli brand. If you don't have "Autozone" check yourlocal auto supply houses. You have to be careful of the height of the capor the hood wont close. If you want a larger diameter cap use#8071. It has a hole on top for a rubber smog tube fitting. Plugthe hole with a chrome spring cap from the hardware store and drill a few holesaround the bottom flange. I think the larger cap looks better, moreoriginal, but it has to be modified so I use the smaller cap for my covers. Buy both caps, and see what you think. They are only five or six buckseach.
Look at my web page <healeyray.com> for the knobs. The knobs are $35. Send me a check and I'll ship you a pair.