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No turn signal-Part 3

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Tinster

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Well now!

I am beyond totally stumped.

I lost my turn signals again! in mid turn leaving my
neighborhood. A moderate pothole at the right turn
merge lane that cannot be avoided.

KaBUMP- both turns are dead. Flashers work just fine.
Swapped out the flasher cans at home- both work just fine.
No blown fuses. But no turns either.

I really don't feel like ripping out the dash wires again.
Are unreliable turn signals another problem typical to TR6s?

disappointed for now. Going fishing tomorrow and that
always cheers me up.

d
 
Dale- Got to be a loose connection somewhere,or, as someone said on other post a wire rubbed raw.
It's a convertible ,use hand signals. Keep driving!
 
Did you replace the turn signal switch? Easy to check connections there.
 
I would check if there is voltage on both sides of the fuses. Make sure the contacts are clean and the contacts are tight. I had this happen on a GT6. Fuses were good, but the contact would go in and out.
 
He's got Dan's panel.The fuses will light up if dead. He said the switch is new. I still think it is a bad contact or ground.
 
No, TR6s are not prone to turn signal issues. Mine have worked fine since I got it. -The headlights are another story... similiar to the speedometer, temperature guage and other electrical components.

Try backing over that same pot hole to see if that fixes it.

It's funny that you have to take time off from your car to get your proper mood back. It's the opposite for me. I had a four hour "mood adjustment" last night just swapping out the waterpump/alternator belt. But the drive today was well worth it.

You've got a bad connection -probably to the switch.
Jer
 
I bought a non lucas replacement turn signal switch that was bad out of the box.
 
My local parts guy said almost all the new ones are garbage ,so I bought one on eBay.
 
Dale,

If you'll report the results of the tests I suggested before, maybe we can find out where the bad connection/contact is.

This is, after all, a fairly simple electrical circuit. But since you cannot see the electricity flowing, you need to make systematic tests to find out where the circuit is broken. Checking for voltage with the circuit disconnected doesn't always work, so the trick is to have everything connected and trying to work, then check to see where the voltage should be, and isn't.

Might also help if you could post a copy of Dan's new schematic for your car. Since Don's TR6 is a 71, it will likely be different (plus Dan/Mike customize to some extent depending on what equipment you tell them you have).
 
If you scroll down to page 6 of Dan's wiring diagram for his TR6 power block from his pdf instruction manual, you will see the wiring schematic. The wiring for the turn signals are similar to the original TR6, but there are a few minor changes.
 
martx-5 said:
The wiring for the turn signals are similar to the original TR6, but there are a few minor changes.
Click to expand...
Well, the changes between that diagram and the original 69 turn signals seem pretty drastic to me. Are you really suggesting that, in order to install Dan's harness, you must replace the hazard flasher switch with a later model and change the wiring to both switches ? Note in the original drawing (which I posted in part 2 of this thread), the hazard switch is before the turn switch and there is a relay involved, while in the drawing you referenced (and 70-onwards cars) the hazard switch is after the turn switch and no relay.

I find that hard to believe, but since I don't have a 69 TR6 ...
 
I noticed a coupler is used to connect the LG/Brown wire to the turn signal switch Green wire. I would bet that this coupling is not making a good solid connection as they sometimes look like they are connected, but in reality it is only the insulating cover the holds them together.

Check that first.

Else, here are my thoughts:

Master's provided his own design for the turn/hazard light system. The original design switched incoming power between the two circuits, whereas Dan switched the output of the two systems as they go to the lights.

What this means, is that for the entire turn signal circuit to fail, it is either an open from the power block to the turn switch, or within the switch itself (or the hazard switch). Dale's noticing he could still hear the flasher working is a mystery, because for it to work a path to ground through the lights is needed to actuate the flasher can.


If that is not the problem, one needs to check for voltage at the power block(light green/brown wire), then if present, check at the turn signal switch. If there, set the turn switch to left turn and check for voltage on the green wire. If you have power there, then it's the hazard switch.

Have a good fishing outing.
 
Randall the only difference I see is there is a separate relay for both and as such the hazard is a different style as it does
not need to power 2 things.Both relays are before the switch.
 
Gee thanks Randall, I was heading down to the shop to install the dash . Now I have to wait for the next part.
 
TR3driver said:
Are you really suggesting that, in order to install Dan's harness, you must replace the hazard flasher switch with a later model and change the wiring to both switches ?
Click to expand...

Randall, read page one of the instruction manual I linked to. There is a paragraph about the hazard switch!
 
Master tossed the entire design of the original system as quoted here:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Do yourself a favor and discard the stock hazard switch. The majority of turn signal problems are due to faulty hazard switches. Replace it with the DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch supplied (or similar if you want to put the switch where it can be seen and don’t like the looks of the one supplied), and wire it as shown on the wiring diagram. Just be sure to NOT get one with a “center off” position, as neither the turn signals nor the hazard flasher will work with the switch in the off position. [/QUOTE]

To use the original switch and design, one justs needs to not use his hazard connection and go directly to a power source.
 
Ray, he said NOT to get one with a center off position.
 
Thanks, the cut and paste dropped the bolding. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/blush.gif Fixed now.
 
Ah yes, so there is. Thanks for pointing it out, I didn't bother reading through the text.

Tinster, what exactly did you do when installing Dan's kit ? Do you now have his (no doubt industrial quality) hazard switch installed as shown in the referenced diagram, and the original hazard relay removed ?

Don, I still don't understand what you are saying about "a separate relay for both". The only relay I see involved in turn signals in the kit diagram is the "power relay" near the upper left of the "power block". And presumably it's not the problem, since the engine won't run without it.
 
TR6oldtimer said:
I noticed a coupler is used to connect the LG/Brown wire to the turn signal switch Green wire. I would bet that this coupling is not making a good solid connection as they sometimes look like they are connected, but in reality it is only the insulating cover the holds them together.
Click to expand...
Good point ! What I've seen several times now is that the spring sleeve inside breaks, so it no longer grips the bullets. The vinyl outer sleeve will supply some pressure, so they make contact sometimes, but not others.
 
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