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TR2/3/3A No electric current in TR3

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G

Grainger 268

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While working on choke I laid choke cable cross positive battery cable. I noticed smoke and flame. I immediately separated. I now have no electric current at all. Ignition light comes on when I turn key but as soon as I press starter I hear what sounds like solenoid. Just once and then no current and light goes out. No power to headlights or anything else . Battery is fully charged . The two fuses are fine. Any thoughts? Thanks,
 
Smoke and flame - not good unless you're camping.

If ignition light comes on, you have *some* current, sufficient to light the bulb. But the solenoid "click" usually indicates discharged battery, or very low CCA (amps). Shorting the battery could also have caused internal damage to the battery plates.

Remember that a battery can show normal voltage (12v) but not have sufficient power (amperage) to support the load of the starter. how old is the battery?

If you turn ignition off, wait an hour or two, will that ignition light come on next time you turn the key?

Tom M.
 
It sounds like you had a major short through the choke cable but it must have involved the wiring harness at some point.

My suggestion would be to systematically work your way along the wiring harness looking for damage. It is possible that it is limited to one area where the short occurred.

Post some pictures and we can take it from there.
 
Whenever you do something like this, you may have damaged several things, so it's impossible for us to guess what happened. A lot depends on precisely where, in the circuit, you touched something hot with 12V. Don't assume that the fuses are OK until you check them for electrical conduction--fuses can be bad but look OK. Make sure that no connections are melted. Its likely that you can find the flaw by inspection.

I'd suggest two things: (1) get a voltmeter or a test light and trace the voltage from the battery through the electrical system to find where you are losing the voltage; and (2) make SURE the battery is OK. You can get a load tester from Harbor Fright for $18, and it will be good enough for occasional use.
 
I would look at the voltage regulator. If the regulator has an open circuit, there could be no power to the ignition, but you did say the light was on for a while. You can leave the regulator hooked up with the battery undone and look at the wires underneath it and remove the cover to see the windings



I would check the age of the battery and charge up the battery. Perhaps the solenoid toasted, so see if the button on the back of the solenoid works, or by pass the solenoid all together to see if the engine will spin. For sure check on all the battery and starter wires and connections.
 
Thanks everyone for your help. The car hadn't been started since last September, so before assuming some damage had been done by the short and fire I thoroughly cleaned battery clamps and terminals, made sure battery had full charge .Also tightened nut to solenoid that was slightly loose. Checked all other connections.Solved the problem. Thanks again.
 
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