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Tips
Tips

no clutch

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What I got from another forum
"Seems possible that the clutch has "frozen" to the flywheel with rust film.
If so, not a major fault.
Try jacking the car up and putting the back axle on axle stands, then start the engine in gear. As the engine comes under load a few stamps on the brake pedal will usually crack the rust film and give you a functioning clutch."

Thoughts on this guys ??
 
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my Haynes manual warned me about slave rod tampering people like u guys ; ) hahaha ..
i believe it said to change the throw out bearing....zimmmmy

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In my case with the thinner Tilton clutch it's a necessity for the racing set-up. I make everything adjustable.


Jack, google up DRE, formula Vee parts and call those guys and tell them you want what I've got in the past, it's the only thing I buy from them, so just what Acme Speed Shop gets, you also need a AN to AN fiting the same size as the threads in slave cylinder, I think it's a 3/8 fine, but double check me on that, and because the an to an fitting on the slave side will not seal on the flare you need to use a crush washer on that side for seal.

DRE will send you two #3 braided teflon lines with a union and a bleeder assembly on one side and the AN to AN fitting on the other side, add the crush washer to slave side and you're done. I saw this first on the Huffaker race cars and thought, wow what neat idea, no more clutch fluid in my face, the added bonus is that with the long upward line the clutch will bleed in 5 minutes or less, it amazes me that Moss or VB does not sell these.
 
Woodie, I've freed tractor clutches using that method, but be sure the car is pointed in a safe direction should it come off of the stands.
 
While we're on the subject of clutches and slave cylinders, I'll throw this out there too, it seems to be common knowledge among the racing crowd, but it seems I meet people all the time that don't know about this. The upper mounting bolt on the Spridget A-series slave cylinders can be a real pain to get started and get tight. What a bunch of people have been doing for as long as I remember is take a cutting disc and cut the end of the mounting eye out of the upper bolt ear on the slave cylinder, then you can just leave the upper bolt in the transmission case and tighten to the point you can just slide the now open eared upper mount on and only have to turn the bolt a few times to get tightened and totally avoid the misery of getting the bolt started.
 
Hap,
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I put that in the knowledge base a little while back. https://www.britishcarforum.com/lore/article.php?id=065 It sure makes it a lot easier. The other one I've seen is cutting the head off the upper bolt and "loctite"ing it in to essentially make it a dowel. The lower bolt secures it and the upper “dowel” stops it from rotating, but I don't care for that solution too much.
 
Another wonderful tip. Thanks.
 
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