No brake lights

[57_BN4]

I went for a short drive with a group of other Healeys today, interspersed with the odd TR Triumph. One thing that really caught my eye, or didn't as the case may be was that none of the Healey brake lights came on during normal round-town driving. The TR's did, presumably because they use a pedal switch rather than a pressure switch.

Seems like the amount of pedal pressure required to drive normally isn't enough to trigger the stop lights on maybe five cars, including mine which is kind of asking to get whumped from behind. Testing the brake lights puts them on ok but anyone asked to put the brakes on to test the lights instinctively gives the pedal a good shove which would result in a rather abrupt stop when moving.

I don't want to go bodgering in a pedal switch but something needs improving here. Any thoughts on replacement switches? I heard only bad things about them so far.

Andy.

 

[Brinkerhoff]

My TR3 uses the same pressure switch as the Healey only with spade terminals. As that switch ages and depending on what brake fluid was used they need more pressure to work and sometimes they don't at all. They can be checked on the bench by hooking an ohm meter to the terminals and inserting a blunt punch inside to push the switch . Now compare to a new switch. Silicone fluid seems to aggravate original switches which leads me to believe there is real rubber inside of one. Don't think about it too much , just change it out. My original switch failed on my Healey this summer just before a long trip! I replaced it with a spare Moss supplied switch (with the original screw terminals)and it works just fine . TR3 , E-type, MG , Healey , all use the same pressure switch , some with screw terminals , some spade. I don't think adding a pedal switch is worth it as long as you have a good pressure switch. I'll see how long the Moss switch lasts.

 

[bob hughes]

Just nipped into the garage to check mine out.

You boys have got problems.!

I have a bit of travel on my pedal before the brakes bite, but I touched the brake pedal down to a very slight resistance as if you were covering the brakes and the lights came on.

There could be rubbish in the line just outside the switch or as stated above your switch mechanism may need to be replaced.



Bob

 

[RAC68]

Hi Andy,

I really know your concern. Having experienced a rear hit during a scenic drive when the car following hadn’t realized I was progressively slowing to a stop until my brake lights finally activated. Although the brake lights did go on, they obviously did not give the following vehicle enough notice.

Luckily, damage was light, however, I decided to equip my Healey with an electrical switch and not rely on the pressure switch alone. I developed a simple mounting for a standard electrical brake switch scavenged from a junkyard van that functions in parallel to the pressure switch. By running both switches in parallel, each switch will be available to provide brake light activation and minimizes wiring changes. Although the pressure switch does work, the electrical addition provides the lighter earlier warning.

The new electrical switch is supported in a simple inverted “L” bracket created to mount on the bottom of the air plenum. The bracket allows the button to ride directly onto the peddle shaft and, with mounting nuts, allows for travel-adjusted switch activation.

All the best,
Ray (64BJ8P1)

 

[tahoe healey]

Any chance you have air in the switch. Mine works perfectly and it was a replacement last year but I "bench filled" it prior to installation.