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TR6 Nissan wheels on a Tr6

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tr6_easyrider

Jedi Hopeful
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Has anyone used Nissan wheels (like 280 zx). I would like to mount these wheels, but I'am having trouble with the lug nuts. The Nissans' are metric and I need 7/16 with .750 outside diameter shank. I'd like to use the stock studs, but it's looking more like I will have too change to metric studs, which I don't really want to do.
Thanks Joe
 
I don't have any answers, but more questions!!!!

Are the lugs too large for the Nissan wheels? I wanted to use a set of wheels from a 240Z but I was told that the lug pattern was different. My wheels are not true and I cannot get the viberation out. If the Nissan wheels don't work, I guess I will be ordering a replacement.

Thanks for posting, Pete

I will be following this thread to see your answers.
 
Joe,

Z car bolt patterns should be the same as TR6.

Just want to mention that the Unilug wheel/wheelnuts combination can be a real PIA to center on the hub.

Here is a tip I ran across online a while back (apologies as I don't recall teh source).
This worked pretty well on my MGB roadster which is wearing an old vintage set of Cragars with the Unilug (shank) style wheel nut.

When mounting, first center the wheel on the lugs by snugging opposite lug holes to the hub using 2 tapered lug nuts. This centers and holds the wheel to the hub temporarily while you insert the shank lugnuts into the opposite 2 holes and pull tight.

Remove the 2 tapered nuts and finish installing the the remaining shank style and torque to spec. This should make the wheel-hub relationship satisfactory and less prone to balance problems due to an out of round relationship.

Cheers
 
69tr said:
My wheels are not true and I cannot get the viberation out. If the Nissan wheels don't work, I guess I will be ordering a replacement.
Click to expand...

69 TR,send your wheels out to br straightened Foster Wheel Service. It's on the web
 
PeterK said:
Datsun 240-280 share the same 114.3mm bolt circle as our TRs. You need a backspace that is less than 4" to avoid inner clearance problems.

For lugs, try an autoparts or speed shop. I use McGard #62001. Use a caliper to measure the shank and hole to ce sure.

https://www.mcgard.com/search/default.aspx?PrimNavID=1&NavID=11&GroupID=45
Click to expand...

They don't seem to have 62001 listed on the web site.

Are you running datsun wheels as well?

My Wheels are out of round too, and I'd like to get some new ones in the near future (maybe next year). Being able to use Datsun ones will open up some more possiblities.

Cheers
 
It's right on the web page I sent the link for under long .946 shank, 7/16-20 thread size.

No, I run KN Minator minilite-style whhels made for the TR.

As I said before, Datsun wheels are a different offset and you might have to use spacers to clear the suspension. Also factory Z wheels are normally 14" and the TRs all use 15" wheels.
 
I see it now, it's a bit lower on the page. I gotta exercise my mouse finger more I guess.

It's good to know the correct lug for our application!

I'm not sure about the offest of the datsun wheels: TR wheels choices

The Z wheels do come in lots of sizes though: Z 4 lug wheels

Cheers
 
https://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u44/Tr6_easyrider/IM000454.jpg
https://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u44/Tr6_easyrider/IM000456.jpg
https://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u44/Tr6_easyrider/IM000458.jpg
https://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u44/Tr6_easyrider/IM000467-1.jpg
The wheels are from a Nissan 1981 1/2 280 ZX Turbo, 15x6J.
The bolt pattern is the same as the TR6. There is an issue with rubbing on the upper front control arm when at full clock, so I sawsalled the top tip off the arm.
69tr,there is a problem with the Nissan lug nuts thread size being too big. You can find 7/16 lug nuts, but the shank size is smaller than the stock Nissan, which I measure at .749 in. outside diameter, most mag wheel nuts measure .685. The shank centers the wheel to make it hubcentric.
Tosh, I like your tip on centering the wheel. What do you use for torque specs?
PeterK, How do you center your wheels, using that size shank?
I'm thinking of having the original Tr6 lug nut shank,(.809 in.) machined to size, and use the washer from the Nissan lug. The shank lenght is the same for both lugs, but the Tr6 has a taper on the end. The last pic is a stock Nissan lug.
 
I reamed the holes in my wheels to fit the common size shank-style lug nut w/flat washer. KNs use a weird size so you have to buy their expensive lugs or do what I did.

There is no outside taper on the shank-style attachment, nor it it a uni-lug, just a straight through hole with a couple of 1000ths clearance for the lug nut.

I used a longer shank that goes through the wheel and into the spacers on the rear, and use the shorter shank for the front running w/o spacers.

KNs are lug-centric, not hub-centric like most modern cars. So you have to get one lug started, then start the opposite hole to initially get them centered on the lug bolts.
 
Tosh said:
Here is a tip I ran across online a while back (apologies as I don't recall teh source).
This worked pretty well on my MGB roadster which is wearing an old vintage set of Cragars with the Unilug (shank) style wheel nut.

When mounting, first center the wheel on the lugs by snugging opposite lug holes to the hub using 2 tapered lug nuts. This centers and holds the wheel to the hub temporarily while you insert the shank lugnuts into the opposite 2 holes and pull tight.

Remove the 2 tapered nuts and finish installing the the remaining shank style and torque to spec. This should make the wheel-hub relationship satisfactory and less prone to balance problems due to an out of round relationship.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Good tip. Thanks Tosh
 
Sure looks like he'd take out the rear fender flares on the first big bump.

Are you running spacers or wheel adapters on the rear?
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Tosh, I like your tip on centering the wheel. What do you use for torque specs? [/QUOTE]

70 lb.ft. (give or take). (I don't know what factory recommendation is/was). They have stayed put so far. Remember these Cragars are tres thick compared to the modern thinwall forgings. They could likely easily handle another 15 or 20 lbs. ft. I try to not use any more force than necessary.
Your results may vary!

Best
 
For 7/16" studs, the recommended torque is 50-55lbs.

I just found out (never knew this before) that if you have a click-type torque wrench like the ones that Sears sell, they must be turned down to zero when you store them. If you leave them dialed to a settings the spring inside will stretch and they will become inaccurate over time. I always left mine set to 90 for my Audi lugs. So I just purchased a new split-beam type torque wrench for engine work; told they are much more accurate and will not go out of spec. I'm keeping the Sears wrench for lugs only.
 
https://www.rims-n-tires.com/rt_specs.jsp;jsessionid=CB6B3ECC7B0BA2CE0D6D2624839A6B50
rooster, According to this calculator, the offset is only .02 differance from stock. The backspace for a stock wheel is 3.5". The backspace for this wheel is 4". Yes it does look the tire hangs out there, but it is up on jack stands and it has not had an alignment yet. This tire also has a bigger footprint than the wimpy 30 yr old red lines.
:smile:
PeterK, No spacer or adapters.
"You can't know how unless you've done it yourself ... the second time I think I actually did it right!" Your quote Peter! :smile: We'll see if it works.
kodanja, The comment about the red lines, just pulling your leg.
 
With a 4" backspace, it would actually be more inside the wheelwell. You're right, it must be an illusion becuase it's up in the air.
 
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