Next project:: timing cover gasket and crank seal

[JoeV]

Howdy Gents,
I'm about to attempt to seal an oil leak at the crankshaft seal in my 1500 Midget '77. Has anyone here ever done this? If so, got any tips,shortcuts or warnings to pass along? The Haynes book suggests jacking up the motor to gain clearance for the crank pulley removal,to me by eye this doesn't appear to be necessary.(Icould be wrong though)Also does anyone know the size or the bolt on the crank as I have to procure a socket,none of mine are big enough I know that.
Any help is much apprciated
Joe

 

[aeronca65t]

My '78 time trial/street car has the same 1500 engine.

The socket size is 1-13/16" (1.8125") or a 46 mm socket might work.

The reason for jacking up the motor is to allow clearance above the steering rack...this way you can use a socket extension and impact gun. The nut is tightened to 150 ft. lb and generally, as it gets older, becomes "stuck" (so that it takes even more than 150 ft. lbs to remove it). My imported impact gun, which normally works fine for most jobs, didn't have enought "umph" for this job and I had to borrow a friend's American-made gun....in other words, this nut is *tight*!

I did manage to remove one of these nuts using "hand" tools, many years ago. The car was in a junkyard and had it's oil pan removed. We put a 2 X 4 inside the block, to bind the crank from turning, and we used a six foot cheater bar slipped over a breaker bar to turn the socket. "Creative" approach, but not generally recommended. Using an impact gun is the only proper way to approach this job.

Be sure to reassemble with "Lock-Tite". I tightened mine to only 75 ft. lbs once (because I was playing with different cams) and it came loose (I drilled a 1/16" hole in the nut and front pully....mine is safetywired now....you shouldn't need this for normal street use)

[ 07-16-2002: Message edited by: aeronca65t ]</p>

 

[JoeV]

Thanks Much for the tips.I'll let you know how I make out after I get the proper tools and such
Joe