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Newbie HELP: TR 3/4 leaf spring/axle installation

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Willie_P

Willie_P

Jedi Hopeful
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To my esteemed advisers:

I went to install the leaf springs and rear axle this weekend;

I put the tube buffers on the torque tube, put the leaf springs on the studs/shackles (appropriately, I think - per the photos I viewed of other TR suspensions).

HOWEVER, where I became confused (the car has been apart for 5 years); the lowest hanging point of the "arch" of the leaf spring is well below 4-5 inches the torque tube of the axle (which is resting on the tops of the frame rails).

Is it presumable that I add the u-bolts and lower spring plate and then tighten the u-bolts until the springs "rise upward" to meet the mounting pads welded on the bottom of the torque tube? if this is the correct procedure - how do I know when to stop tightening the u-bolts (ie - the axle is properly seated on the leaf spring).

thanks for shedding light on this for me . wp
 
That's how it is! You may need to put a jack under the plate the U bolts go through and jack it and the spring up to get the nuts on.

Best of luck

Ash
 
IMO (having just done this a few days ago on my TR3), 4-5 inches is too much. That sounds like you've got the wrong springs, or the rear shackles are assembled wrong, or you're working on a later TR that takes the alloy spacers between the springs & axle. There should be a gap, but it should only be 1 - 1.5".

Here's a shot with a jack under the plate:

DSCF0009_crop_light.jpg
 
Willie_P said:
how do I know when to stop tightening the u-bolts (ie - the axle is properly seated on the leaf spring).
Click to expand...
The axle has to sit down over the head of the bolt through the spring. I tightened the nuts in stages until the axle was just touching the bolt head, then wiggled it around to get it lined up and finished tightening the nuts. Book says 28-30 ftlb (but I just guesstimated with the impact wrench).
 
I think we are all on the same page here (as these are the springs and parts originally removed from the car - all I did was repaint them).

let me add one other item to the equation: I am putting 1.5" alloy lowering blocks between the spring and axle. I presume as a result of this the axle tube will ride a good deal higher OVER the frame rails than previously (when not using the lowering block)...correct?

any tips, pointers relative to the use of lowering blocks?

wp
 
Yes, that sounds right. No tips, other than you probably should buy the u bolts for the high arch springs - they are longer to accomodate the factory alloy spacers.
 
Well, just because the parts came off the car doesn't make them the right parts. I think the fact you want to lower by 1.5" likely indicates that someone has installed aftermarket springs with too much arch. If I lowered my car even 1/2" more, I couldn't back out of the driveway!

Anyway, double-check the shock absorber movement with the spacers. If the shock is hitting bottom, it will quickly ruin it; and they don't have a lot of extra travel. With the factory spacer blocks, the shock link attached to the block instead of the plate under the axle.

But longer links might solve the problem (if you have one). I don't know which ones are which offhand, but I know other British cars used different length links. Or you could probably fab your own from some rod ends & a turnbuckle or whatever.
 
great suggestion (TR3driver) on the link length!

I did not mention it earlier, this car is a '62 TR4 (which most I've seen ride pretty high in the back). And most tr3's have a nice ride height from the factory (nice and low).

I am reasonably sure everything I have is stock.
 
This is a interesting tread. I would really appreciate somebody's opinion on this.

I am slowly starting to pick away on my TR3 project again and I am still not happy with my rear leaf springs that I installed a while back.

When I installed my leaf springs, I remember having a heck of a time trying to install them...... I remember having to have somebody stand on a pry bar to push the leaf spring eye low enough so I could get the shackle bolt in .

As it stands now, my axle is pretty much sitting right on the frame, even if I get in the car and jump it still does not even compress the suspension enough to get the axle off the frame.

I think they are TRACK leaf springs because they are super stiff and the front has Koni shocks and sport springs

Is it possible that the leaf springs I have are designed to use the aluminum spacers with longer U bolts.

I am still not very familiar with these cars yet.
 
Well, my TR3A frame doesn't have the body on yet, and I can tell you that the differential is sitting hard on the frame. They are new stock springs. I don't think you'd be able to install high arch springs, the factory alloy spacers for a TR4 were probably 3-4" thick, and I'm not even sure if the spring eye-spring eye distances were the same for those setups.
 
TR4nut said:
Well, my TR3A frame doesn't have the body on yet, and I can tell you that the differential is sitting hard on the frame. They are new stock springs. I don't think you'd be able to install high arch springs, the factory alloy spacers for a TR4 were probably 3-4" thick, and I'm not even sure if the spring eye-spring eye distances were the same for those setups.
Click to expand...

Hey Randy,

I am finally going to try fitting the engine intake I bought off you a while back and get this rebuilt engine started

So, your axle is also hard on the frame, it just does not seem right. From looking at a few pictures of other tr3's, I thought the axle was supposed to sit 1-2 inches above the frame?

Once I get the TR3 running, maybe a full fuel tank will lower the springs.
 
Hey I forgot about that intake- hope it works for you!

I need to check my disassembly picks, but when the body was off the frame I think even the old springs had the differential tight to the frame. Now I have read that the replacement springs may be stiffer which makes it worse, which is why a lot of people prefer the originals as long as possible. I'm going to wait and see if it gets better with everything in place.
 
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