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111

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Hello,

I am soon to be the new owner of a 1980 MG with around 20k on it, and wanted some basic advice as to what I should do to it in the first weeks from a maintenance standpoint. For example what fluids do you guys typically use, and where do you get the best prices on parts such as filters.

Every car I own I run on synthetic Mobil 1 oil and corresponding filters. However I've never owned a British car before, and have heard they are prone to oil leaks. Needless to say dyno oil is less likely to leak, so that is one reason for my inquiry.

Are these cars prone to any particular maladies that I should be aware of (i.e. BMW Vanos issues)?

Needless to say any advice will be welcome.
 
welcome! I too recently got a 80B, except mine was a project car and now i am in the process of waking her up. The first thing I would do is change the oil and filter, the transmission oil, and also add oil to the rear-end before driving it around.

You should also check if the rack and pinion steering housing has oil in it. Also squirt grease into the 6 nipples in the front suspension and 1 in the propeller shaft.

All this is in the Bentley MGB owner's and workshop manual if you don't already have one I recommend getting one (from ebay or amazon). It has a comprehensive list of maintenance items as well as detailed instructions on how to remove or assemble components.

The great thing about British cars is that they are simple with few parts and if you are like me, comfortable getting grease under your fingernails, you will enjoy working on them.
 
welcome! I too recently got a 80B, except mine was a project car and now i am in the process of waking her up. The first thing I would do is change the oil and filter, the transmission oil, and also add oil to the rear-end before driving it around.

You should also check if the rack and pinion steering housing has oil in it. Also squirt grease into the 6 nipples in the front suspension and 1 in the propeller shaft.

All this is in the Bentley MGB owner's and workshop manual if you don't already have one I recommend getting one (from ebay or amazon). It has a comprehensive list of maintenance items as well as detailed instructions on how to remove or assemble components.

The great thing about British cars is that they are simple with few parts and if you are like me, comfortable getting grease under your fingernails, you will enjoy working on them.
 
welcome! I too recently got a 80B, except mine was a project car and now i am in the process of waking her up. The first thing I would do is change the oil and filter, the transmission oil, and also add oil to the rear-end before driving it around.

You should also check if the rack and pinion steering housing has oil in it. Also squirt grease into the 6 nipples in the front suspension and 1 in the propeller shaft.

All this is in the Bentley MGB owner's and workshop manual if you don't already have one I recommend getting one (from ebay or amazon). It has a comprehensive list of maintenance items as well as detailed instructions on how to remove or assemble components.

The great thing about British cars is that they are simple with few parts and if you are like me, comfortable getting grease under your fingernails, you will enjoy working on them.

I use 10W-40 non-synth oil. 80W-90 gear oil for transmission (gearbox), rear axle and steering housing. I use the more expensive K&N oil filter (pn# HP1002). Good luck with your new MGB and let us know how she is running when you get her.
 
You're stutterin' YB. :smirk:

Motor oil should be used in the gearbox. Needle bearings in the layshaft need thinner lube.
 
can someone just confirm that the aforementioned oil has the zddp for the job - I've lost track of what's good and what isn't
 
Is this forum dead(three replies, or six if you count mgnewbie three times :wink: ), or are most people not willing to answer questions that have undoubtedly been asked before?

I will be getting the MG from an original owner who presumably has done regular maintenance to it. However as a personal policy, I like to change all the fluids so I am certain it was done with the best products. Call it a piece of mind strategy.

Also what do you guys do to preserve/clean the plastic rear window?
 
I know that Castrol Syntec 20/50 is recommended for flat-tappet engines, and probably other makers heavier weights, which are not subject to the same restrictions on ZDDP content.

BTW, Doc, 80/90 Gear Oil is about the same weight as 20/40 Engine Oil.
 
111 said:
Is this forum dead(three replies, or six if you count mgnewbie three times :wink: ), or are most people not willing to answer questions that have undoubtedly been asked before?

I will be getting the MG from an original owner who presumably has done regular maintenance to it. However as a personal policy, I like to change all the fluids so I am certain it was done with the best products. Call it a piece of mind strategy.

Also what do you guys do to preserve/clean the plastic rear window?
Click to expand...

Not dead at all. Usually, there are answers almost before you get the questions out!

At any rate, I use Valvoline VR1 in both the MGB and the TR8. (Zinc level up to snuff, J-P.) Same stuff goes in the gear box for the B.

As for plastic windows, Novus is the stuff you want:

Novus

Welcome to the party, by the way!

:cheers:
Mickey
 
I use either one, which ever's handy. PJ

PILOTS VIEW
09-01583.jpg


OR

FLIGHT BRIGHT
flightbrightClear-large1.jpg


ALWAYS REMEMBER, You get a lot more with sugar than vinegar!
 
111 said:
Needless to say dyno oil is less likely to leak, so that is one reason for my inquiry.
Click to expand...

That is an old wives tale. I use synthetic in my cars. There should be no problem using Mobil 1. The only bit of truth to the old wives tale (they all have a smidgeon of truth to them) is that in a very old engine with existing leaks that have been clogged up by sludge, the better detergent action of synthetics (owing to their additives not wearing out as fast as dino oil) will eventually dissolve the sludge, making the leaks more leaky. Personally I think it's a ridiculous thing to worry about...sludge causes much more harm than leaks.

Use engine oil in the tranny. That's what the manual says and that's what you should use.

Check the forum sponsors for parts. Moss is the most comprehensive but also most expensive. I tend to use Northwest for regular parts.

I have a BMW 3-series and I can tell you that it is a much more complicated and temperamental car than the MG. The main issues with the MG are the need to occasionally fiddle with the carbs and the fact that some Lucas components are prone to early failure. However, if you follow the forum advice you can make these components better than new when repairing and they will then become reliable. One example is the SU fuel pump which has a propensity to burn points and stop working after a few years. There's a guy on the forum who converts them to solid state...much more reliable.
 
Ok, now we are getting some more replies. Thanks to all who have chimed in so far.

BTW - To the last poster who mentioned the old wives tale regarding synthetic vs dyno, I have experienced it first hand.
A low mileage Datsun with regular oil changes (no sludge from what I could tell) was converted over to syn from dyno and sure enough several leaks developed from the gaskets. Fortunately they were easy to reach gaskets, not a main engine seal or anything hard to get to.
 
I was just informed it has not been started for 6 months. I can only assume the battery is dead. What type of battery does it take from a CCA rating, and does it have top or side posts?

I will bring a can of starting fluid to spray into the carbs if it does not want to start. Any other suggestions of what we may encounter with it sitting that long?
 
Here's everything you need to know, courtesy of our own Tony Barnhill, whom we lost earlier this year:

Awakening a Sleeping MG
 
Mickey Richaud said:
Here's everything you need to know, courtesy of our own Tony Barnhill, whom we lost earlier this year:

Awakening a Sleeping MG
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. He sounded like a knowledgeable guy who was very helpful and giving of his time.

If I need a new battery, does anyone know the battery model/number off hand at typical auto part places like Autozone, WalMart, Sears, etc.?
 
tdskip said:
Sitting for just 6 months shouldn't be a big deal if she was healthy before being stored.
Click to expand...

Yup...my car often sits for 6 months...charge the battery and check everything over, add some fresh gas and fire her up and drive her.
 
Old fuel would be the biggest issue, methinks. This stuff we're being forced to use is far less stable than the old TEL gasolines. Ethanol is the devil's brew, IMO. It degrades in a matter of weeks.
 
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