New Wizard Radiator

[2wrench]

I cease to be amazed. Beauty and function. When I
grow up.....

 

[MDCanaday]

Its all so beaufiful that you hardly notice the Achillies heal....did you see it???
You can't mount alloy parts just like their steel counter parts. You must provide some better vibration isolation than was used originally.Look at a Japanesse car with an alloy radiator(or plastic)Rubber donuts!! even the upper mounts should be isolated. The reason is that alloys will fatigue faster(stress cycles)..... I would suggest a larger hole in the bottom mount to accept a donut,the upper could have an isolator similar to that on the XK8 air cleaner(still cheap).
Hope I didnt rain on your party too much, I love the idea and it would be a shame to see it not last, since it will certianly cure your heat problems and cause you to drive more!!!
MD(mad dog)

 

[Brosky]

Good point that you bring out. I have some insulators that can go under the mounts.

 

[Guest]

I mounted mine with close-cell dense foam rubber, 3/4" thick. Compressed it down to about 1/2" and used all-metal locking nuts so they wouldn't back off. Works for me. Because I used the larger Spal fan motor, I needed more room before the cross member. Just drilled an adjacent hole in the distal part of the mount and mounted the radiator slightly forward to give me about 3/8" clearance. The GoodParts aluminum shrouds still fit, with some coaxing.

 

[DNK]

... Just drilled an adjacent hole in the distal part of the mount and mounted the radiator slightly forward to give me about 3/8" clearance. ...

The man's got dentistry on the brain

 

[angelfj1]

but . . . but where's the hole for the hand crank??? :frown:

 

[Guest]

... Just drilled an adjacent hole in the distal part of the mount and mounted the radiator slightly forward to give me about 3/8" clearance. ...

The man's got dentistry on the brain

I could have said "mesial"....

 

[2wrench]

Mesiodistal?

 

[AweMan]

You really might want to do some research into the corrosion factor on untreated aluminum. Especialy if you live in a coastal area where the salt factor in the air might be significantly higher than other areas. A typical method to keep aluminum from corroding is an alodine treatment. I know that there are several color choices when it comes to alodine, the typical gold and there are also red, green and blue, and maybe others I don`t know of.
Having experianced living in So. Texas I know for a fact from personal experiance that an aluminum radiator in a coastal environment can go south in a hurry.
F.W.I.W.

One more thing, Aluminum work hardens and is prone to cracking much faster than Steel or other Alloys.
So vibration dampening is a MUST DO!
Kerry

 

[Brosky]

Thanks to all for the tips. I will make sure that it's insulated from metal to metal issues.

Kerry, I live in RI, but not near the coast. At least I don't think that I'm near enough to have salt issues. The family owns a place in Florida on the coast and I've seen what the salt will do to aluminum there, so I know what you mean.

 

[Trick6]

Do Not paint your radiators. I just had my stock radiator repaired and instructed the shop not to paint it. Of course they did. So when I got it home I had to strip the paint form the tank. Now this is not a pretty sight when done. The tank is a mixture of copper, lead and solder. Butt ugly. I had to paint the tank and frame for aesthetics but I steer away from painting the fins. You know everyone wants a clean looking radiator so they paint them BLACK. The worse thing ever for heat dissipation. So, guys, keep your new radiators aluminum . They look great. If my radiator was too far gone, I would have replaced it with the Wizard. They are just great parts and they fit the application without fuss. You might want to check out this link.
https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm

 

[Brosky]

I wasn't planning on painting mine.

 

[swift6]

Actually, black is very good for heat dissipation. Yes, when it is in direct sunlight it gets warmer than other colors because it doesn't reflect as much. However reflection is different than radiation which is what a radiator does. Black has been shown to be THE color to use to radiate heat better than any other color. The real problem with the paint that radiator shops use is that they spray it on very thick and it is a very tar like paint, not its color.

 

[DNK]

Actually, black is very good for heat dissipation. Yes, when it is in direct sunlight it gets warmer than other colors because it doesn't reflect as much. However reflection is different than radiation which is what a radiator does. Black has been shown to be THE color to use to radiate heat better than any other color. The real problem with the paint that radiator shops use is that they spray it on very thick and it is a very tar like paint, not its color.

Exactly why my whole engine is black. Ceramic coated from the Alloy valve cover down to the oil sump.
Was even thinking of PC or CC the SU's but thought that might be over the top.

 

[Roger]

Well now, despite their name, radiators don't radiate heat - well, not much, anyway. If they did, you wouldn't need a fan.
Heat is lost by conduction to the moving airstream.

 

[swift6]

Well, if you want to get really technical about it, they radiate, conduct and convect. Automotive cooling systems work through forced convection. Transferring the heat from the engine to the radiator. Where it does, in fact, radiate heat. To increase the efficiency of the radiator, it is placed in the path of an airstream (by movement through said airstream or by means of a fan) to introduce even more forced convection. There is very little conduction, which would be the transfer of heat through matter to the surrounding areas. As in metal to metal contact etc... Yes, air is also considered matter but in heat transfer, matter is usually thought of as a solid. The air moving through the radiator is considered convection since air is considered a fluid.