New Wiring Loom Soldering

[angelfj1]

I'm strictly a solder guy. Crimp fasteners are cheezy IMO. Squeezing solder after it's been set creates a fractured joint. As does wogglin' around th' wire as th' solder cools (as th' video guy does). If AIR is eliminated from th' connection there's less chance of dissimilar metals goin' goofy in time. "ScotchLoks" and other crimp or "casual" connectors are the enemy. The interface between copper and dissimilar metals like th' bullet connectors should last past your lifetime, solder is the only thing I know of that'll DO that. Crimping alone is allowing atmosphere to play a part. Crimping *before* solder is unnecessary. It just dams up the backside of th' connector.

Doc, actually this is one of those topics that has been debated ad nauseum! But, companies like Amp have written volumes about the benefits of crimped connections. In the electrical power industry it has been routine for about 90 years. Now, I admit for low power and micro-electronics there are issues. Few auto applications today use soldered connections (outside the black box)

Here's a good basic article concerning mechanical (crimp) vs soldered connections.

S&VC

 

[angelfj1]

Learned something new today!

However, here's a caveat!

I have never seen solid copper wire used in a TR or other English sports car, but:

From Thomas & Betts

<span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">"Crimped lugs work best with non-tinned stranded wire. When using solid wire, <span style="text-decoration: underline">it is important to solder the connection after crimping </span> because the crimp does not fill the empty space as well, so even if the crimp is well made, the wire can move and rotate, causing a poor connection. It is also better to solder stranded wire that you have tinned after it has been crimped for the same reason"</span></span>

 

[DrEntropy]

Doc, actually this is one of those topics that has been debated ad nauseum!

Yup, I know. It'll go on longer, too. I've read th' papers, know the results.

My proclivity for the solder joint goes as much to neatness and original appearance as anything. I have AMP and Stakon tools and use them for things like house wiring, various electrical and electronic projects around th' hovel. But <span style="font-style: italic">not</span> on LBC's...

It works for me and we both know how stubborn an Italian mind can be... :wink:

...and th' thought of using solid core wire on anything in a car just gives me th' creeps. :smirk:

 

[stinky60]

after using rosin core solder it is a good idea to clean the joint with rubbing alchohol it will help keep your connections from corroding from the flux which does contain some kinds of acids

 

[aerog]

Nah, Rosin-Core is used in electronics and It's non-corrosive. Acid-Core on the other hand <span style="font-style: italic">will</span> corrode - you shouldn't use acid-core on electrical connectors anyway.

From Kester about the rosin-flux typically used in cored solder:
<span style="font-style: italic">Throughout its many years of wide usage, 44 Rosin Flux has produced many billions of soldered connections. In all these billions of solder joints, involving the most delicate and critical of electrical and electronic components, there has never been an authentic instance of corrosion by the flux residue under normal conditions of use. This mild property of the residue permits leaving the flux on the assembly for many applications.</span>

 

[aerog]

My proclivity for the solder joint goes as much to neatness and original appearance as anything. I have AMP and Stakon tools and use them for things like house wiring,

That's the problem - I think. The really cheap crimping tools don't always do that great a job. Good connectors and good tools make for a good connection, but some of these other ones...yikes.