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New top -- what else to replace?

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drooartz

drooartz

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So I've sourced a pack-away frame for the B, and am working up a (huge) order for Moss with the various bits and pieces I need. Funny how even a solid driver-level car like this one can generate a long parts order. :smile:

So I'll reuse the header rail. I'm going to get a new header rail seal. Do I need a new "retainer" and rivets for the seal? The metal on my header rail seems to be fine, I'm assuming I would just get the seal itself?
 
I'd get the aluminum seal receiver as well. In my experience they always seem to be beat up or have holes auger'd out too much to be reuseable.
 
As I said in another post, "and so it starts...."

How do you compare/contrast the MGB and Bugeye Drew? Wife have a preference yet?
 
DrEntropy said:
I'd get the aluminum seal receiver as well. In my experience they always seem to be beat up or have holes auger'd out too much to be reuseable.
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I'll add it to the list -- I was wondering about that piece.

tdskip said:
As I said in another post, "and so it starts...."
How do you compare/contrast the MGB and Bugeye Drew? Wife have a preference yet?
Click to expand...
As you should well know, these cars always need something :smile: . I'm sure the PO wouldn't have done anything other than a tuneup this season if he hadn't sold the car. I'm just figuring I can solve a few things right off the bat. Having a working top is critical, though. My rule is no project that takes the car off the road for more than an evening (other than the top install, which I will farm out to a professional). Besides, I don't like doing things half way. If I'm going to fix the top, I'm going to fix it right.

The MGB and Bugeye are radically different in feel. I'm working up a summary of my impressions -- I had some time to drive the two of them back-to-back this past week.

Wife likes the B better (more comfy) though she does think sitting on left side as a passenger is a bit odd.
 
You might want to drill a hole in one end of the header rail to get out all the pop rivet left overs unless you want a rattling header rail.
 
Stewart said:
You might want to drill a hole in one end of the header rail to get out all the pop rivet left overs unless you want a rattling header rail.
Click to expand...

+1 and make sure it fits under the rail you attach
 
JPSmit said:
Stewart said:
You might want to drill a hole in one end of the header rail to get out all the pop rivet left overs unless you want a rattling header rail.
Click to expand...

+1 and make sure it fits under the rail you attach
Click to expand...

I usually jus' dump 'em out thru th' rust holes in th' end corners of th' rail.

:devilgrin: :hammer:
 
I was wondering about the drilled-out rivets. We'll find a way to extricate them.

Just placed the big order -- took advantage of the current Moss sale and a recommended reseller. At least I can tell my wife I just saved us $200!

<span style="font-style: italic">of course that means I just spent a grundle as well, but all for the good...
grin.gif
</span>
 
I keep meaning to replace the seal over the radiator on my car (bears against the hood/bonnet). In my next order for sure. Mine loooks terrible and it seems that at least half the Bs I see have a bad one.

Only about $7. The Moss number is 282-900
 
Thanks for the reminder on that piece, Nial. Mine is missing entirely. Funny how you think of these things *after* the big order is in. Oh well, there's always the next order. :smile:
 
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