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Agree with splitting the nuts on the wheel boxes and saving the original boxes if you can. I replaced mine and they are not as tight as the original's. The major problem with the old boxes [another car] is the shaft seal on them. I haven't figured out how to replace that and with what yet. In a downpour they will let water come down the shaft.

Kurt.
 
NOS Locator has "new" wheel boxes advertised as manufactured to fit for IIRC $50a pair on eBay right now.
 
I'll bet they are "new", Jim, and not "new old stock". The "new" I fitted to my 65 midget are not as tight as the old ones and the seal which was the main reason I bought them is already split after 4 years. I could have put up with the same leak's with the old!

Kurt.
 
Kurt,

I can't comment on quality but I think NOS Locators seems to have some pretty good stuff. at least that is my impression of the stuff they sell. Installing wheelboxes is a problem that is currently far down the road.
 
I'll just split the nuts and order new ones when the time comes. My wheel boxes are in great shape. Just need some polishing and new seals. Actually, every seal needs to be replaced...lol but I need to remove them so I can get the paint stripped.
 
I'll just split the nuts and order new ones when the time comes. My wheel boxes are in great shape. Just need some polishing and new seals. Actually, every seal needs to be replaced...lol but I need to remove them so I can get the paint stripped.
 
How hard is it to replace the molding between the body and quarter panel. Not sure what it is called. I'm thinking I will need to pull it out to get the body work done correctly.
 
bansheedave said:
How hard is it to replace the molding between the body and quarter panel. Not sure what it is called. I'm thinking I will need to pull it out to get the body work done correctly.
Click to expand...
The "proper" way to do it is to remove the fenders, take out the fender beading and replace with a new one, welding it back together. But hardly anyone doew is that way anymore and uses this method instead:https://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb-rear-fender-beads.html
 
HealeyRick said:
The "proper" way to do it is to remove the fenders, take out the fender beading and replace with a new one, welding it back together. But hardly anyone doew is that way anymore and uses this method instead:https://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb-rear-fender-beads.html
Click to expand...
Thanks, that helped alot. I'm up in the air on either doing a half fender or the whole thing. But if I don't do the whole thing, at least I know how to replace the beading now. I appreciate the info.
 
HealeyRick said:
The "proper" way to do it is to remove the fenders, take out the fender beading and replace with a new one, welding it back together. But hardly anyone doew is that way anymore and uses this method instead:https://www.mgexp.com/article/mgb-rear-fender-beads.html
Click to expand...
Thanks, that helped alot. I'm up in the air on either doing a half fender or the whole thing. But if I don't do the whole thing, at least I know how to replace the beading now. I appreciate the info.
 
That article is pretty much how we're doing the beading on Penny Bugeye -- all the beading was pretty much shot and rotted.

beadingremove2.jpg
 
Sure looks like a tedious job. Still not nearly as big a job as doing it the traditional way I guess.
 
The beading on my car is in pretty good shape from what I can see. The issue I have is the removal of bondo, lots of bondo, and hammer out the dents as best as I can. The beading is just in the way.
 
Another quick question. I believe the drivers door on my car is the original cause the inside color matches the original color of the body. Here is the issue, the trailing edge of the door hits the body when closed. I'm wondering since the rockers are rotted out and the floor is as well up by the footwell, could the body have sagged causing the door to pinch at the rear? Or did the doors fit poorly to begin with? I tried adjusting the gaps but wasn't successful. The passenger door is fine and has a decent gap all the way around. Not perfect, but decent. There also isn't as much rot on that side of the car.
If indeed the car has sagged do to the rot, I will have to measure out the body and weld in braces sooner than I thought. And is there any good reference points to take the measurements from?
 
If the passenger side seem's OK I would start there for a comparison.

Kurt
 
Measured both door openings. Both were the same so the body hasn't sagged. Just an ill fitting door. I will fix this and get all the gaps looking good. Just a bit more work is all.
 
bansheedave said:
Measured both door openings. Both were the same so the body hasn't sagged. Just an ill fitting door. I will fix this and get all the gaps looking good. Just a bit more work is all.
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When I first saw your post, I was going to suggest that these cars were not exactly reknown for their fit and finish, but also thought that with what these cars have been through in almost 50 years (or more), anything was possible. I'm glad it's the former and not the latter. An ill fitting door is probably an easier fix than a sagging body.
 
SaxMan said:
When I first saw your post, I was going to suggest that these cars were not exactly reknown for their fit and finish, but also thought that with what these cars have been through in almost 50 years (or more), anything was possible. I'm glad it's the former and not the latter. An ill fitting door is probably an easier fix than a sagging body.
Click to expand...
agreed
 
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