• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

New to site. High Oil Pressure

AussieBJ7

Freshman Member
Offline
Hi all. I'm only new to the site, so be gently with me :joyous:
I have a 1963 AH 3000 Mk11 abnd have just had the carby's re tunned. The old girl was missing a bit and though it may be due to the carby. Took her out on the week end and she was still missing and the oil pressure seemed a bit high, normaly aroung 40 when warm, but the gauge was showing as high as 60. Just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and what the cause me be?
Love to here back from anyone hou could help.

Cheers
Steve
 
Thanks for the reply.
I don't think it is the points.
I have recently done the points, distributor cap, rotor.
My main concern is the oil pressure.
Don't unders stand why the pressure would be going up?

Steve
 
Maybe the gauge is out of whack ?
Ignition/Carb issues are not going to alter oil pressure .
 
Is this a new problem? At an idle you should be able to see oil coming out of the rocker arm when you take the oil cap off.
 
If its still missing at a steady speed you could be a little too lean . Jet needles wear more at the fat part of the needle so if you've adjusted for a good clean idle , you can be too lean at speed.
 
Cheers for you reply.
Though about the gauge. It seems to be ok, as far as I can tell.
When idling it seems ok, just when it gets warm.
When I took her out, last Friday, and noticed the gauge I wasn't going to chance anything so decided to take her home.
On the way back the gauge dropped back down to the correct pressure. If it was the gauge I would've expected it to be more variable.
 
Yes, first time it has happened.
I will check the rocker arm when I get home tonight, just gone 12.30pm here. Only a few hours to go.
 
Cheers for you reply.
Though about the gauge. It seems to be ok, as far as I can tell.
When idling it seems ok, just when it gets warm.
When I took her out, last Friday, and noticed the gauge I wasn't going to chance anything so decided to take her home.
On the way back the gauge dropped back down to the correct pressure. If it was the gauge I would've expected it to be more variable.


Sticking oil pressure relief valve ? when did you last change the oil and filter and is it original or a spin on filter .
 
doesn't seem to miss at idle. I have put a new fuel pump on with a flow valve.
I have 'tweeked' the rate but haven't taken her out since.
I'll see how that goes and if that's not it, it could be the needle.
 
If it is high one time and normal another , yes the relief valve. I've never seen a bad mechanical gage do that. You just want to make sure it pumps oil to the rockers without blockage.
 
Full service only a few weeks ago, this has happened since then, the first time out since the service.

what kind of oil filter , original or spin on
 
If you've changed the fuel pump and have to run a pressure regulator you could have too much fuel pressure still . I think the stock pressure is only 2-3 lb. any more than that will leak past the needle and seat valves and raise your fuel level in the jets causing too rich of an idle. If you are adjusting for this by leaning out the mixture , then yes you will be too lean at speed.
 
Change the filter again and I bet your problem will dissapear .
 
Steve,

I’m a little confused. What oil are you using? When are you getting the 60 lbs of pressure and in what stage of the start/run cycle are you getting 40 lbs?

It is not uncommon to get 60 lbs of pressure on initial startup with cold 20W50 oil. Also, since the oil pump will push a high volume of oil, any passage restrictions will increase pressure until about 60 lbs when the relief valve opens. Change the spin-on cartridge with a completely different brand.

For the miss, do you have an electronic ignition or points? Other than the standard stuff, I would check plug wires and plugs. I would also check the pins and seats in the carbs for ware along with their damper oil levels if you are getting you miss on initial acceleration.

Hope this helps,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
Last edited:
Engine missing- You have those HS6 carbs - have you checked the feeds from the float chambers to the jet. I could not go faster than 60mph, stripped the carbs down and found that one of the feeds was blocked by the rubber grommet at the float chamber where there is a stuffing gland. After that performance went up and petrol consumption followed suite :wall:

:cheers:

Bob
 
How old is your car? How old is your oil gauge? I have a "tester gauge" to use when customers have similar concerns. I have replaced two gauges in the last year, and two owners chose to live with their inaccurate gauge.

Saying all that, I was driving a TR3 having a fresh full frame off restoration including a rebuilt engine and the oil pressure was a steady 55 psi when hot. The day was very hot in the mid 90's and without any warning the gauge shot up to 90 psi, stayed there for a 20 seconds or so and then settled out at around 60. In the next 11 years of owning the car it never did this again, so I considered the problem fixed !

I know this doesn't help you, but if your car is missing on 1 cylinder you might, I say might, be getting a little pressure transfer from the piston to an oil port under a not so very well sealing head gasket. This would increase your oil pressure. Oil coming the other way from the oil port to the cylinder could also drown out the spark causing the misfire. Hope I'm wrong!

1
 
Back
Top