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New to a Sprite, tune ups....

Haha, it will only take so much and dump the rest. No prob with overfills.
 
jlaird said:
Haha, it will only take so much and dump the rest. No prob with overfills.

ohh well that makes that easy lol
 
tdskip said:
Did you have a chance to watch the video from University Motors yet?

They will help on carb tuning. What happens now if you lift the carb piston behind the air filter a 1/8 inch while she is running?

So went through and found a good video... I never thought to keep searching for other videos and I found one from him on tunning the carbs. Different car but I am guessing the same concept. So I feel really good about getting the air/fuel dialed in. Unless it needs to be rebuilt bu ya, I will apply my learnings this weekend and see what happens :smile:

Thanks again
 
I really don't know squat but I do know this: Your willingness
to dive in will get you a LONG way. Knowledgeable folks here
and elsewhere will gladly help. The desire is the key.
Ya got the key.
Welcome to my world. I'm soaking the knowledge as fast as
I can too. Great fun to DIY and get results. Good luck.
:cheers:
 
Well it turns out I have no idea what I am doing :frown: I really think that my carbs need to be rebuilt... As I try to adjust them I am noticing, the left one sticks a bit when it is all the way up. It also seems to have a lot more play when moving it up. Then the left one seems to be harder to move and a lot less play. But when I give it gas, see, like the shaft does not open all the way, its a lot more closed than the left one. Then Messing with the fuel mixture, I noticed that the left one really didn't do anything and is way more screwed in (up) than the left one is. The left one I can make it change using the mixture nut it change the idle and all. Applying what I saw int eh youtube video I got it to not jump up or down when opening the shaft. But they are both so far off.

All this was practice because I still ave to dial in the timing. Need to get extensions to the the timing light down there. Taking the plugs out they look good minus one. One was really wet, the other 3 were ok. Haven't check to see if it is even sparking.

So rebuilding a carb, how had is it?
 
Have you done a compression test on the engine? One wet plug could indicate a bad plug or wire or it could be low compression in that cylinder due to a burnt valve.
 
ya not yet...
 
robdmau said:
About the SUs, how do I know if there is enough oil in the top? I do not see a fill line or anything.

Fill to 1/2" inch from top, if you overfill a little, it's not a problem as it will just lubricate the upper piston area. The important thing is not to have a "dead spot" (area of no resistance)

You can lift the piston with your finger to make the fill tube more accessible.
 
Basicly all there is to the carbs is matching them so that both butterfly's work exactly together [linkage adjustment between carbs]. Set idle screws the same then turn jets in till they are both even with the bridge under the piston then down 12 flats on the jet adjustment nuts. That will get you very close. Of course the choke [mixture enrichener] must be linked together identically and not influencing the jets at the time.
As to the unequal raising of the pistons, if both carbs have oil its important though not at initial tuning time, in my opinion.

Kurt.
 
there is a small SU tool that you put in your piston so you can line up the main jet holder!! the pistion must move with out binding or you will never get the carb set up right
 
great thanks guys
 
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