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New radio install?

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MadRiver

MadRiver

Jedi Knight
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Howdy all. My questions abound today.


I just purchased a new radio, and I'm seeking advice on installation. The power wires are labeled "ignition" and the other is labeled "battery." I know the 250 has an extra connection for accessories on the ignition switch, so that's no problem. I'd love advice as to where the other wire should connect. There's a third wire for ground, but that's easy.

Thanks in advance for the advice!

B.
 
Bill my guess, from some one with a proven track
record of knowing just zero about electronics:

I think both wires are hot wires. One for the
accessories pin on the ignition switch and the other
can go to any connection that functions while the
ignition switch is on. I think the accessory feed needs
to have an in-line fuse.

But you better get an experts advice. Mine might
just blow up your radio!!

D
 
normally, the ignition source is switched and the battery source is on all the time. so for the battery wire, you need to find a source of power that is always on.
 
Constant battery source to keep clock running all of the time and ignition shuts off radio with key. Fuse both when installing, if not already on the harness.
 
Give it a moments thought - do you really need the radio controlled by the ignition? If not, wire it directly to the battery - I, for one, don't like messing or hacking into the TR's electrical system. It was not uncommon for British cars from this period to have their radios work indenpendant of the ignition. The wire labeled "ignition" (probably red) is to permit the radio to be activated when you turn the car on. The other, labeled "battery" (probably yellow) is to provide constant voltage to maintain the memory settings on the radio when the car is idle. If you don't need the "ignition on" setting, merely splice these two wires together, and run a red wire from both to the positive lead of the battery. It is wise to use a proper crimped lug terminal onto to the battery, and it's absolutely essential you install a protective inline fuse as close as you can to the positive battery terminal. Radio shack has all of these bits and if it's a regular radio a simple 1.5 or even 2 amp fuse will do the trick nicely. Good luck.
 
I didn't say it was a good way to do it, just how it works. Ha-ha!! Sometimes the Lucas Gods are better left sleeping.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Give it a moments thought - do you really need the radio controlled by the ignition? If not, wire it directly to the battery - I, for one, don't like messing or hacking into the TR's electrical system. It was not uncommon for British cars from this period to have their radios work indenpendant of the ignition. The wire labeled "ignition" (probably red) is to permit the radio to be activated when you turn the car on. The other, labeled "battery" (probably yellow) is to provide constant voltage to maintain the memory settings on the radio when the car is idle. If you don't need the "ignition on" setting, merely splice these two wires together, and run a red wire from both to the positive lead of the battery. It is wise to use a proper crimped lug terminal onto to the battery, and it's absolutely essential you install a protective inline fuse as close as you can to the positive battery terminal. Radio shack has all of these bits and if it's a regular radio a simple 1.5 or even 2 amp fuse will do the trick nicely. Good luck.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks guys. That's a good idea. The need for constant power makes sense -- of course, I cut off the battery whenever I shut the car off -- even when I park it at the office. It is an electronic radio, so I'll certainly loose the saved stations, but I don't ever like having the car sit with the battery hooked up -- I just don't trust 38 year old wiring. I hadn't thought about that! Haha.

The radio has fuses in the power lines, so I'm comfortable with that.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Hi I have never owned a tr250 and was wondering if they are positive or negative ground.
Sp53

[/ QUOTE ]

TR250's are negative ground. Triumph made the switch over during the TR4-4A series I believe.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
MadRiver
I just bought one too. My 'battery' lead has a 10a fuse connected already. There is no fuse on the lead going to the ignition, but I will be installing one anyway as I don't trust the Lucas electrics.
Where are you putting your speakers?
Regards
Craig
 
[ QUOTE ]
MadRiver
I just bought one too. My 'battery' lead has a 10a fuse connected already. There is no fuse on the lead going to the ignition, but I will be installing one anyway as I don't trust the Lucas electrics.
Where are you putting your speakers?
Regards
Craig

[/ QUOTE ]

Hey Craig: I installed "kidney" panels for a TR6 on either side of my center console (see TRF catalog page 216). I had tried to replace the center console itself with one from an early TR6 so that the kidney panels would line up nicely, but Greenie always vigorously resists the replacement of any of his original parts, and simply would not accept the new center console without serious modification that I wasn't in the mood to do. So, I simply screwed the kidney panels into the side's of Greenie's center console. It won't mean the best sound -- since the speakers are nowhere near my deaf ears, but at least it's subtle and I wasn't looking to do a huge speaker box on the rear shelf. I'll take some photos and post them.

B.
 
[ QUOTE ]


TR250's are negative ground.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep. Pretty much like an early TR6 mechanically. But with *much* better looking sheet metal. Hahaha! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/devilgrin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
Bill, I think that you will find that speakers installed in the kidney panels are the best way to go as far as sound. I tried both, rear boxes and kidney speakers. The rear boxes took up valuable storage (mini-cooler, jackets, etc.). That said, I dumped the radio and put in a blanking plate. Couldn't hear it over my exhausts unless the car was off. An aside, my British Wiring harness actually has a radio lead installed. Must've been OE for the TR6, not sure about the 250. You are correct in assuming that antique wiring is not adequate to support a radio. Best to go completely independent of the harness. That is the fun part, routing new wires and making it as neat as you can.



Bill
 
Hey guys -- I got the radio in and the installation looks as neat as possible. The part that extends through the console was smaller than the prior radio, so I'm going to come up with something to clean up the look a bit -- probably make a small surround and cover it with trim. Overall, though, it doesn't look half bad, and I'm satisfied with the speakers where they are. The sound is ok (probably could upgrade the speakers), but I can't hear it over my exhaust most of the time either!

I'll attach photos later. Didn't get a chance to take any yesterday.

Quick question -- the radio came with a 10 amp fuse. Too high?

Thanks again! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
MadRiver
mine has a 10a fuse also. Considering my electrical system runs thru 30a fuses, I was concerned that the 10a would be forever popping. I don't want to increase it as the radio may melt! Anyone with electrical knowledge out there to offer some advise?
Regards
Craig
 
[ QUOTE ]

Quick question -- the radio came with a 10 amp fuse. Too high?


[/ QUOTE ]
Well, 10A at 12V is 120Watts. If your radio has a built in power amp that may not be too much. The thing you have to watch for is that ALL the wires uses to install the radio can handle 10A (or if you are splicing into a system - 10A more then they are carying now). That is if you are not going direct to the battery, they your 10A fuse is only protecting the wires it is on and not any wires that they are taking current from. If your radio is in parrallel with something else that is drawing 10A and you 'tap' into that wire you could be drawing 9A for the radio (via the radio fused line) and 9A for the original circuit. The result is the radio 9A will be added to the original circuit current in the portion of the line between the splice and the battery and that wire will be carrying 18A and may only be sized to handle 10A. If it is not fused at 10A the wire itself could become the fuse.

This is all much harder to describe by typing then it is by hand waving and scetch drawing. I hope it all made sence.
 
To prevent loosing your preset stations on your radio when you have turned off your battery switch, do this;
Install one of those self resetting circut breakers around the battery switch. The smallest value they make is 8 amps I think. It is the same size as a ATO/ATC blade fuse and will fit in that type of fuse holder. This will keep your station presets and also allow you to play the radio when the battery switch is off. But when you try to start it with the battery switch off, you here a click as the starter draws way more than the little circut breaker can handel. It resets right away without loosing your station presets. It also reminds you that you did turn off the battery switch last time you left your car. I installed one on my Healey 3000 and it works like a champ.
 
be careful to do it right, I had a removable face plate unit in my Alfa ( not to worry, I am a Triumph guy) and it had a constant draw if the radio was not switched off before removing the face plate.I could not figure out for some time why the battery would drain.
 
Hey, you'll probably need to up that 10 amp fuse. I hooked up my cd player and kept blowing them out. Also, be careful about letting people fool around with your british wiring. I burnt up a rheostat by allowing one of our local boys to help me find a ground. He ran my ground through my lighting hot wires. When in doubt about a ground, make one yourself.
 
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