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New Radiator - Unbelievable

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noutlaw

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I was experiencing major overheating problems with my car and decided this summer to have a new radiator custom built by chuck @ antique radiators in maine. My 67 BJ8 was experiencing overheating issues (that we all face)...

Some interesting points:
- the new radiator weighs about 20 lbs heavier than origianal radiator - due to materials and density
- previously in 70 degree weather my car continously ran 185+ and when sitting at a light would go 190+... this is with a 160 degree thermostat installed.
- when discussing the new radiator, they quoted 20-30% more efficient than existing radiator design.

- and now... the car runs (70 degree day) between 160-165 - exactly where the thermostat wants it to run. you can actually see the temperature drop from 160 down to 150 then crawl up when the thermostat opens up fully. Sitting @ a light it will go up to 165-170, then drive about a mile and it comes right back down.

- I know 160 is not the ideal operating temp for these cars, 180 is better, but now i believe i can truly switch out the thermostat with a 180 and have the car operate @ 180.

- it will be interesting to see what it does during the summer - 90+F.

- also - side note - when discussing with Chuck @ antique radiators - he recommended not using a texas cooling fan for front as it reduces airflow through the radiator and that a good radiator design should allow the car to run normally even when stopped.

Anyway - the workmanship is unbelievable - radiator looks brand new - and looking at it from front/back/sides you cannot tell it's using new & improved technologies, etc. inside the radiator... so it looks 100% original...

*** Even better - the interior of my car is not so hot when driving around ****

Pretty cool!
 
With all due respect to "Chuck" I fail to see how a "Texas Cooler Fan" operating as a Puller can block air from coming through the radiator. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif
OH! I achieved results similar to yours with a slightly modified radiator and--------------------A Texas Cooler Fan. However, we are glad that you got your major heating problems in the Healey solved with the new radiator build.
 
I've had great results with an aluminium radiator from Denis Welch along with a "Texas cooler" fan and works-style side vents (they do work).
 
[ QUOTE ]
I've had great results with an aluminium radiator from Denis Welch along with a "Texas cooler" fan and works-style side vents (they do work).

[/ QUOTE ]

Yep them "Chuck Folks" got a problem. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
wow, 20 lbs heavier but still the same size on the outside. it's either made of really heavy material or else there's a bunch more stuff inside than the standard radiator? whatever it is, glad it's working for you. stay cool!
 
[ QUOTE ]
With all due respect to "Chuck" I fail to see how a "Texas Cooler Fan" operating as a Puller can block air from coming through the radiator. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif

Maybe they don't use one of them belt thingies..
 
"when discussing with Chuck @ antique radiators - he recommended not using a texas cooling fan for front as it reduces airflow through the radiator and that a good radiator design should allow the car to run normally even when stopped."
--------------------------------

Perhaps Chuck is being misquoted: No one that I know uses a "Texas Kooler" in FRONT of their radiator. What they--me being one of them--use is an electric fan mounted to or in front of the radiator, and though I think this is an important element in dealing with temperatures in traffic for MY car there are nevertheless several smart folks on this forum who feel that the fan blocks airflow, etc. etc and is not a good idea and that indeed a clean engine and radiator should suffice. I don't know who Chuck is but I think what he says might be right under ideal conditions--my experience is simply different.

BTW I attended a seminar at this year's AHS&TC "Encounter" given by Ralph Steinberg of Cloverleaf Auto. He categorically stated that AL radiators are less efficient in conducting heat than are copper ones and though he is happy to sell AL units to those who require them their only real advantage is that they weigh less and that this offers an advantage only to those who race/rally.

Perhaps the popularity of AL units is part and parcel of the disappearance of radiator REPAIR (as opposed to replacement) facilities and the price of copper versus aluminum. Me, I'll stick with my upgraded copper core, my Nock flex fan and the 12 volt unit in front of the rad.
 
Well Yes Michael,but if you want to build a much larger radiator with out the penalty of significant weight in crease then the Aluminum radiator is an advantage. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif I also think "Chuck" was misquoted , that word "Front" kinda struck a chord with me too.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
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but if you want to build a much larger radiator with out the penalty of significant weight in crease then the Aluminum radiator is an advantage.

[/ QUOTE ]

In Healeys I don't think we can go any bigger as far as radiator dimensions go. I had my rad recored a few years back and the new core has five staggered rows of 5/8" tubes versus the four rows of 1/2" tubes as previous. The estimate was about 25% increase in cooling capacity. Nevertheless when stuck in traffic in high temperatures I still need to use a 12 volt fan to get some air going over the rad. As I've said elsewhere the Nock flex fan is the one most signficant improvement to cooling that I have made--wish I had done it first.
 
well i seem to have struck a cord with you guys - i was posting too late - you're correct -it was the electric cooling fan in front of the radiator blocking airflow... radiator is the exact same size and look of original radiator...

that's it...
 
Yes Michael, they can be made larger. My radiator will not fit in an origial side frame. consequently, I modifed the frames by cutting away the old folded edges and replacing them with new angle pieces front and rear it looks bone stock too.---Keoke
 
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Yes Michael, they can be made larger. -Keoke

[/ QUOTE ]
In a BN1, BN2, you can't. The radiator is already very close to the steering column.
D
 
My car is bone stock. No work ever done to the radiator as far as I can tell. This summer, I've done highway driving, city driving, parade duty and even some exibition racing, granted only a few laps. I've had zero cooloing issues, no overheating, no spewing of coolant onto the pavement...at this point, from this thread and others, I can only conclude I've been lucky...
 
In the few hot weeks we had this year (80-90 degrees) my Healey ran at between 170/180 no problems whatsoever in both stop/start and fast traffic. As far as I am aware the radiator is original. The only thing that has ever been done is to have it 'reverse flushed' soom after I got it around 12 years ago. Maybe the BN1/BN2 is different but a regular (or not so regular) reverse flush to get rid of all the silt might be all that is needed for most people.
 
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