• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

New owner, old questions...

Share this page

well... I'm going to disagree with Morris... I wouldn't risk muscling the column cowl. The plastic is often brittle and can be easily broken. Besides... you should probably check the condition of that pinch bolt anyway.

Anybody else want to disagree with anyone else?
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
Stay far away from silicone fluid go the extra mile and find LMA Castrol fluid you will be glad u did silcone fluid is NOT worth the extra work u need to get it correct maybe for a classic muscle car that was completely taking apart just find the Castrol if u get the drift
 
sigh... OK, I'll weigh in. I redid my entire brake/clutch system and switched to silicone fluid. I've had no problems. It will not harm most finishes, but it is very difficult to remove from a part that needs to be prep'ed for painting. It is immiscible (sp?) with water so it won't hold water like many other fluids. However, it is possible to get water in the system via condensation. Generally it will work its way to the lowest point in the system. So, you can still have rust problems. Regardless which fluid you use, I would suggest yearly bleedings to introduce fresh fluids and remove excess moisture. Boiling point is the only other issue that I can think of... but it doesn't sound like this is a race car.
 
It is not a race car... yet... ;-)

I tried to pry the ignition cowl off and it felt a bit to brittle, so I will lower the cloumn. :smile:
 
Hi Ulf, I also have a '77. To get to the ignition lock, you may have to take the column out; it won't flex very far. I had to to repair my turn signal switch. The pinch bolt on the steering rack might be a pain and it may still take some additional penetrating oil and persuasion to get it to slide off the pinion shaft.

Sounds like your clutch problems are just hydraulics. It is a pain to bleed the clutch; the bleeder is under the car, and the hose arches higher than the slave or master cylinder, so bleeding it by the book won't get all the air out of the hose. Once you bleed the slave as best you can, stomp hard on the pedal several times and that will move the air out of the hose and preferably burp it out of the reservoir. I just bleed it once more, and it works fine.

I won't go into the silicone vs. conventional brake fluid wars; each has its ups and downs, but for sure they don't mix nicely, so unless you feel like cleaning all of the old fluid out first, stick with the conventional.
 
Well I got the Ignition switch out and it was all a mess and broken. Ordered a new one...

Next step will be the fun and games with the clutch. I hope Castrol LMA T will work.
 
Back
Top