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New owner BN4. Work started . More questions.

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oxford

oxford

Jedi Hopeful
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Hi everyone
I have started stripping the car in preparation for sand blasting. I thought someone may be interested in my rotisserie. thanks to Andrea for the idea. I was going to make it from steel but I had some timber around so I thought I'd give it a go. I was a bit nervous about the weight, but the system seems very strong and operates easily. Don't think I'll climb under it however. Does anyone know the weight of this chassis?

Also, a question about body numbers: this car came from New Mexico and has at some stage lost its original chassis/VIN plate. A home made one was fitted with the number BN4OL/76762. An overdrive is fitted. Should this read BN4LO/76762?

To confuse the matter more I sent for a Heritage certificate based on the engine number: 26DRUH76762. It appears that the body, key, engine and chassis number match so it looks like a matching number car; however, the certificate states the chassis number as BN4L/76762, no O for overdrive. I'm a bit confused!

One more question if I may. The car was originally black with red trim. I knew that and it's on the certificate. I would like to paint the car Healey Blue with blue trim. Is it better to stick with the original colour for resale (one day maybe) or do you not think it will make a difference?

Cheers Matthew rotissori1 (2).jpgrotissori1 (3).jpg
 
Hi Matthew
I appreciate your utilization of wood for rotary, it was my initial choice for my personal inclination to work on wood,
but steel structure are very easy and strong
It appear correctly dimensioned for the weight of the bare frame,
I will add only more large washers, to avoid that head bolt sink in the wood
but this depend from the hardness of the wood used
also the diameter of the rotary bolt appear to be only sufficent, considering the traction and cut forces applied.
increase of the diameter of this bolt and big washers will be well used
I add the photos of your solution to my rotary Google album
VIN BN4LO 76782 will be correct, your can be one of last BN4 - what are the date of build?-
If you aren't interested on concurs and you build the car for the pleasure of driving it - make the car as you like, you pay a lot for this.
but original black and red trim was not bad. NOTE:black demanding one perfect body preparation and paint work.
Cheers
Andrea
 
Hi Andrea
thanks for the reply. Yes the wood is hard. The rotary bolt is 5/8 inch, probably should be 3/4. But then, a larger hole might weaken the wood. The car was built on February 11, 1959 so yes, it is a very late one.
Cheers and thanks for the advice.
Matthew
 
Hey Matthew,
Like Andrea stated, you're the one doing all the work and spending the money so if you like Healey blue, go with Healey Blue. But, on the other hand, black with red trim looks great and if you would go with red coves, looks absolutely stunning. And you would be as original except for the red coves. I had a BT7 that was Healey blue over Old English white with blue interior with white piping and it was a beautiful car. Same for a BN6 that was black over red and red trim with black piping. Both are great choices ! Kind of like pickin' out a Christmas tree - difficult ! Either way, keep posting pictures and ask as many questions as you need as always one of us old Healey guys or gals eager to help ! As to your question about possible future resale, believe the quality of the restoration will trump the original color issue for a BN4. If you do go for a concours quality car and looking to show it then I would keep it original as that will impact your concours points. But unless she's going to be a trailer queen, would not worry about it.
Good luck,
Mike
 
The correct order for the VIN would be BN4L-O-76762 however the heritage certificate says no overdrive so no 'O'. This of course may be wrong, unfortunately they often make mistakes in the certificates. You could ask them to double check. Just out of interest does the car have a heater and wire wheels? The 'standard' BN4 came with no overdrive, heater or wire wheels although anyone of those items could be added to the spec.
You may never get to the bottom of it but it doesn't really matter, similarly with colour. If you like Healey blue go for it it won't affect the value although I do think that having a non-Healey colour can affect the price of a car, or at least make it more difficult to sell.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Yes, the car does have a heater and wire wheels and I am sure the overdrive is original. The engine number shows that.
Cheers
Matthew
 
Hello Matthew,

It looks like you are fine with your matching numbers...O or no O its great you have a overdrive transmission! As far as the color change, Just pretend it is 1958-1958 and you are working at the factory building your Healey....in effect you are! That give you the right to pick any color and option you please! And you can't go wrong with Healey blue. Go with your heart and you will be happy! I have attached a photo of my 1959 BN4 right before i began a total tear down. Good luck Matthew! Michael, IL.100_0431.jpg
 
Hi Mathew,

Regarding your question: "Does anyone know the weight of this chassis?" About 380lbs is what my 58 BN4 weighed after media blasting.

Barry
 
Thanks everyone. I've just finished a complete restoration of an MGA. I've always wanted a Healey and I know that the BN4 is not the most desirable, but Healeys have always been out of my price range, so I was pleased to 'take the plunge' with a car I could afford and I can't wait to work on her. I got her on Nov 11, and have already stripped her down; off to the sand blasters next Sat.
Thanks for all your positive thoughts. I look forward to sharing progress.
Matthew
 
Oxford,

couldn't help myself and I had to post this reply to the "off to the sand blaster" and "how much does the chassis (scuttle) weigh?"...I am restoring a BN4 59 and 380 is about right for mine, until I media blasted...........then I was down to about 250 lbs................you will most likely be surprised at the loss of metal and the things you will find! rust/ damage /rust/damage..........makes it fun. I repaired and replaced a lot. Learn and enjoy. best of luck

Doug
 
Hi Matthew and welcome to the Forum. I'd be a little afraid too. I think the center parallel boards aren't sufficent. You could buy a large pipe and just insert over the center boards for added strength. The chassis only weighs about 250/300 lbs but it's the rotating that bothers me.
 
Matt

I like your timber rotisserie, looks the dogs mate.

I am in the process of knocking up an engine stand from my supply of scrap sections, hope it works as good as your timber construction.

:cheers:

Bob
 
Thanks for that Doug, one more thing for me to worry about:rolleye: I am expecting to lose metal: sills, rockers, boot floor. Well at least it saves time cutting!! But the chassis is in very solid condition for its age. I'd rather lose metal than carry out repairs and then have blasting done. At least I know where I stand when it comes back. Johnny, I'm not quite sure what you mean by "central parallel boards", do you mean the timbers that link the two sections together? I agree, they are not strong enough. I'll take your advice on that.
Cheers
 
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