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New or Rebuilt...what's the difference?

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In my takedown of so much of my car, as usual, I have discovered other hidden problems. While under the dash, I noticed that my Girling clutch master cylinder is leaking down onto my firewall on the inside. Now, this unit is a real Girling that I purchased new 5 years ago from TRF. I am assuming that it is the real deal and as good as it gets as far as quality. I have no patience for leaking brake fluid. This means that I have to touch-up paint the area. Not a happy camper. Over the years, I have also noticed a very small leak from the slave cylinder as well. Also brand-spanking new stuff. Whatever. My choices are fix the problem myself. Not something I have the desire to do, too many other irons in the fire. (The wife is getting a little testy about this car taken apart in the garage.)

Or, buy new ones from TRF ...or... send them off to Apple Hydraulics for rebuilds. The curious thing is Apple, on their website, shows the price for rebuilds to be the same as new units. Go figure. Is there any difference between an Apple-rebuilt unit and a new one? Would it be better than a new OE Girling clutch master or slave?

Need input before I start throwing things......
 
I just bought a complete new setup from TRF for my TR6 and will be converting to silicon fluid as discussed in a previous post. Mine lasted from 1988 until now. The originals lasted from 74 to 88. Erik, my guru from Her Majesty's Service, says that with silicon, they could last forever. Or until next week. Who knows?

BTW, I never changed the fluid and drove limited miles. My slave was leaking and that is what prompted the major change over. I wasn't going to take a chance even though after a bleeding the clutch came right back up.

Bottom line is if I get 10 more years or more fine.

I would tend to trust Apples rebuilds to be as good or better than new. Someone mentioned here in a previous post that they use a steel sleeve, which should last longer than the original alloy casting.
 
Apple Hydraulics rebuilds the cylinders with a brass sleeve. He bores them out and presses in the sleeve. The brass won't pit like the original aluminium bore, and should last a lot longer then the original. At least that's the theory.
 
A brass or stainless sleeve is the best answer. Regular brake fluid absorbs moisture which causes corrosion on steel and aluminum parts. The regular brake parts will last a lot longer if you flush and refill the system every year...but few of us do that.

White Post restorations also does the sleeving service as does Joe Curto.
 
Bill-

You set against silicone? I haven't used it yet, but will convert over the next time I need to break apart the hydraulics. I haven't heard much if any negatives, and I think the corrosion issue with the aluminum will be much less an issue, along with the avoided paint mess should a leak eventually happen.

For no reason, my bias has always been original hydraulics parts - no sleeving, rebuilds, etc.

Randy
 
I've had Apple, White Post, et al sleeve hydraulics for about any English car you could name. Stainless sleeving is a viable alternative to what we get as "new" these days. If there is a new Girling part available, then it'll be fine for a long time provided it gets an annual flush. If you get a "white box" replacement, it COULD last a week... Stainless doesn't care if you use silicone, DOT-4 or mineral oil (see:Rolls-Royce). Never pits and teardowns/rebuilds are a joy IF a seal fails. Not cheap but it can last a lifetime or two.
 
I recently replaced some hydraulic components, I did the trade of rebuilt vs new, and the prices BP Northwest have now, are better than rebuilds
 
Hi Bill,

I had Apple resleeve my original Girling brake MC and it's still going strong after 5+ years. I rebuilt it myself with a genuine Lucas kit and it works fine. I use silicone fluid.

Back when I did my research to figure out what to do, Apple used brass and White Post used stainless steel. I don't know if that's still the case--or if it really matters.

I rebuilt my original (not resleeved) clutch MC about the same time but ended up replacing it about a year ago. I bought one of BPNW's replacements and it's worked OK so far. They don't sell it as a Lucas/Girling part as such, but say that it's made by the same OEM or some kind of blah blah like that. We'll see.

Good luck and best regards,
 
My one vehicle had sat for about eight or nine years since its' last use, when I tore it down last fall. It had been switched to silicone around 1989. The curious thing was the disparity in the conditions of the various seals in the brake and clutch systems. Some were grossly swollen, while others looked relatively normal. If I had been thinking I would have looked closer at them to tell if they were Girling or other manufacturers, because I have used whatever was available at the time. I'm sure the swollen ones would not have operated properly.

Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107
 
For all of the other work you do Bill, I am surprised you won't rebuild these yourself? If the bores are shot, I'd get the Apple units. Otherwise, just take an hour or two and do it yourself. Use silicone and you won't be back in there for some time.
 
Bill:
All the new parts seem to have fairly short lives while either of the two rebuild companies have long lives. I don't think many Triumph owners who have had their cars for 5 years or so without experiencing the clutch master dripping enough to ruin the carpet or the brake master leaking enough to ruin the paint on the firewall or frame piece below.

About 4 years ago I had the master brake resleeved and rebuilt. I don't have to worry about it, no leaks and after 6 mos of no use, the fluid is still topped up. I will send the clutch master out soon as it leaks and I have rebuilt it several times over the past 30+ years. The resleeve is pricey but it works without leaks.
 
I had Apple Hydraulics rebuild my calipers on my 6 and every thing was great.
 
Regardless of what you decide, put in silicone. Unless you race the thing, it's a no brainer - what with all this talk about ruining the paint....
 
Something strange about these posts. Apple told me that my use of Dot 5 was the very reason my TR3 Apple rebuilt Calipers and Brake Master Cylinder leaked (pistons) after two years. Their reasoning was the seals are not up to using DOT 5 and will void the warranty. So I had to pay for the exchange and went back to spec brake fluid per their request.
So I am confused???
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif

1959 TR3A, 1972 TR6
 
It would be worth knowing more about this topic as I assume Apple knows more about this than most. All I know is that for years I stood by originality with the recommended fluid only to have to deal with paint issues when, inevitably, some seal broke down. The ensuing rebuild almost always revealed a mass of crud and rust bits generated from water accumulation. I don't know about you guys, but routine brake fluid changes just seem to go by the wayside. So I switched over to silicone at least 14 years ago or so, and my troubles went away.
 
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