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New MOSS Tapered Front Wheel Bearings - WTH are the instructions

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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So in the mail today are a pair of Tapered Front Wheel Bearings from MOSS for $69.95. They no longer stock the old style of ball bearings. Included in hte kit are 2 sets of fron wheel bearings, new nut, cotter pin, grease, and a whole bunch of shims. And NO Instructions on how to fit the shims. Anyone get a "primer" on HTH to fit these puppies. There ae what we've been asking for but they do not feel substantial and heavy duty enough for our little cars. I hope I am wrong. And since I only trashed the DS accidentally trying to remove it to refit wheel studs any issue with only installing the Tapered Bearing on one side right now? Waiting on 1.5" Wheel Studs, it's Wednesday, super busy at work . and I need ot put this back together for thwe Dayton Show on Saturday AM. New Wheels and Tires will need to wait. Back is all done but it's a choice make the show or not. Bugsy will go on OEM Rims and AH Hubcaps. The new 8 Spoke Wheels and 175/70/13 tires will need to wait.
 
Oh and the MOSS Website has an Info Link on heir Web Site which I presume might take you to an How To Install Page. Link Goes nowhere. #$%#!$!.
 
Fairly Detailed instructions including how to modify the wheel Bearing Spacer to fit. Installing bearings used to be so much simpler. However the instructions keep referring prefitting and checking End Play needeing to be between .000 and .004. But they neglect to tell you how to check End Play. I'm guessing you need to measure between the Stock Keyed Washer and the new Castle Nut. Another Picture needed as part of the 6 pages of instructions. The bearing I trashed may go back in well lubed to go < 20 miles to the Car Show and Back.
 
The tapered bearing setup was developed 20 plus years ago form an outfit called WE RACE. Similar kit that you are describing with the Moss stuff.
It is much stronger than the ball setup that came with the car. Tightening the spacer between the two inner races essentially strengthens the whole assy.
To do play you need a dial indicator placed against the disc, however you can do it by feel
With the right shims and the nut tightened all the way the endplay on the disc should be 0-4 thousand.
You do not have to be crazy with this, essentially with the right shims the hub will turn freely, not enough shims and it will lock up.
Too many and the hub will wobble.
It is very easy. On older American cars you would tighten the nut to X ft pounds and then backoff a little depending on the manufacture(maybe 1/4 - 1/2 turn.
 
Jim
Forgot this
Adding and subtracting shims is easy. After installing hub and checking, Just remove nut and washer. just shake the hub a little and the outer bearing will come loose.
You just add/remove any shims on the spindle and put bearing back, tighten and check.
Whole operation should be about 5-10 min per side.
 
As BlueMax mentioned, the only way to do it right is with a dial indicator. Maybe able to borrow one since you are not likely to need it again. Fit too many shims and measure the end play. Figure how many shims needing removal to give the right spec. Job is done. Done it more than once on MGB's.

Kurt.
 
Define measuring end play. I know it is a simple concept but what exactly are you measuring and where are you measuring it?
 
Cool Thanks.
 
Yeah, I used to stick the indicator holder to the brake disc and measure off the end of the axle. That is after I put what I was sure were too many shim's in and torgued the axle nut.

Kurt.
 
John must know more about MGs than even the factory did.
 
Jim, did you make it to Dayton British Car show? I skipped it and went to StreetRod Nationals in Louisville. They had a Streetkhana course that you could run as many times as you want and the line to run was only about a five minute wait. It was basically set up so that if your car hooked up well and braked well you could get a good time. Needless to say I was a bit off the pace in the bugeye. I could hit 45 seconds but the fastest cars were all the way down to 39 seconds. If I'd had a LSD I could have been more competitive. The organizers were amazed that the car was all stock suspension except for the front sway bar.
 
Trevor, I indeed did make it. 5 BE's in attendance including Don B from Ft Wayne with his Dark Green BE that was at the Fairfield Show, and Steve C from Indy who is a lurker on this list, a nice Medium Blue BE, Mark Masquelier, Bill M's brother from Dayton, and a nice Red w a White Hardtop BE that I never got a chance to introduce myself to. Steve C from Indy, and I didn't catch his last name. Bugsy definitely was the Ugly Duckling in the Crowd but a note I taped to the windshield garnered a lot of interest about his one owner interest. Lots of friendly people all interested in the BE's.

Bought myself a birth day present today a 20 ton press from HF. On sale this month for $179, got it for $144 by joining the HF Club. A pretty nice piece of kit that will be used on Wednesday to install new wheel studs up front on Bugsy.
 
An important safety note to the Team. I had Bugsy pretty high up in the air with axle stands under each side of the axle when I let the floor jack under the front way too quickly by accident. The sudden downward movement along with the scissors jack moving cause Bugsy to move forward and tip him up and off of the axle stands in the rear and to have Bugsy end up on top of the rear jack stands. When changing directions either up or down remember to go slow. On stand almost trashed my SU Fuel pump. Work smart. Quit when you get tired. Fortunately all was ok and thankful I had put the eBrake on tight before I started letting Bugsy down.
 
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