New Member

[HAN8L1965]

I find this an easy way to post pictures on the site.

I first save them on Microsoft Picture Gallery
Double click the photo in the gallery, in the right top clik OPEN, then in the drop down select Microsoft Picture Manager, then select EDIT, in the drop down on the right select COMPRESS PICTURE then select WEB Page and save. the picture is now the right size to post on the site.

Mark

 

[Rut]

Thanks to everyone for helping me post pictures. I still don't know what I'm doing when it comes to computer stuff. The car looks nice in the pictures, but the paint is cracked and has some surface bubbles from the application, not rust. There is some rust along the rockers and rear qp, but not too much. The hydraulics need the most attention. The po said that he had trouble getting them bled so they are not in working order. The MCs are separate Tilton units and the lines are braided ss to the calipers and wheel cylinders. I'll check the calipers since I have rebuild kits in the box, wheel cylinders are new as well. The po also said that he has a new rear seal that will prevent the major leak out of the rear of the engine. That's my game plan along with moving the drivers seat as far back as it will go to accomodate me. Thanks again for all your help!
Rut

 

[Gerard]

Hey Rut, congrats on the Bugeye. Watch out though, they sometimes multiply...

Since these engines have what is called a scroll seal at the rear main, excessive internal pressure forces oil out of the rear of the crank. The oil spewing from the rear seal can probably be improved upon by venting the engine properly. Often, when the 1275's had the emission equipment disconnected, most, if not all the plumbing was capped off or eliminated. You should at a minimum retain a PCV valve between the intake manifold and the timing cover. Also, depending on the oil cap and valve cover you have, you may want to tee the valve cover vent to the aforementioned connection. Sometimes and additional crankcase vent helps too. You may just have excessive blowby,and may not be able to cure it entirely if the engine is a little tired, but I would try getting the vents worked out first.

You may also want to check out my web site. I have lots of good Spridget info in the Tech section.

 

[aeronca65t]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/60606083@N02/5526352885/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/60606083@N02/5526350777/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/60606083@N02/5526937558/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/60606083@N02/5526935442/

I think I may have figured it out!
Rut

The little "at" sign here at British Car Forum is automatically convertered into a picture (rather than a text symbol). This prevents automated internet "spiders" from "harvesting" e-mail addresses (and then sending us all tons of spam). It's a good thing, but it can sometimes create a challenge for posting things like photos.

Each one of your photos has a "URL" which is also called an "address". I forget what the correct way is to get each photo adddress on Flickr (I found them a roundabout way). But some of the other guys here may be able to tell you. A photo address on Flickr will end with ".jpg".

Once you get the address of a photo, just put it between "

"

In other words, like this:----->

Anyway, here's your photos. Nice car!

 

[Rut]

Thanks again for all of the help and explanations! The 1275 is a fresh build with a "3/4" cam, Weber carb and intake, headers, electronic ignition, etc., but I don't know what year...how do I tell? Also the wheels appear to be from an early Alfa. They are BWA model 100s in 5.5JJX13 and I understand from the po that they are actually magnesium, not aluminum. Eventually I would like to get a set of original wheels and possibly wires down the road, but I need to get her road worthy first. I need to clean the grime off of the front suspension, can I use a pressure washer for that or is it too harsh? The front end is tight, but a lot of the rubber needs replacing, should I just dismantle the front end and rebuild with poly bushings? Thanks again for you advice!
Rut

 

[Pythias]

No poly bushings for the street! Too harsh. Keep the wheels you have now! You'll find that custom fit wheels are rare as hen's teeth, stock rims common as dirt, and wire wheels a pain to maintain. ..

my two cents.

 

[Gerard]

The 1275 is a fresh build with... but I don't know what year...how do I tell?
Rut

Engine versions can be determined by a riveted tag, positioned facing up on the engine block just below #1 spark plug. A 1275 begins with "12" followed by a couple letters. Typically they are gone after a rebuild, but sometimes someone has the foresight to remove, save and restore it after the work is done. There are a couple other ways to tell if it's and early or late version, but some clues require the engine to be out. I'd check for the tag first and not worry too much about it if it's not there.

 

[sqbsprite]

Follow Gerard's instructions on crankcase ventilation. It is a must on the 1275. I'd get it running right and the brakes working before tackling the front suspension because it can be a tough job the first time you do it. The car will be laid up awhile and with Spring coming, you should get out and enjoy it some first.

 

[Rut]

No plate on the engine, just 2 rivets! The intake manifold has no provision for a PCV hook up so I've got to figure this out. Car runs well and I think I have the brakes bled correctly...next is the clutch slave and I haven't a clue. I'm too big to fit in the passenger side very well to reach the slave. What about the bleed valves with the 1 way valve in them? What thread size do these things have for the bleed valves?
Rut

 

[equiprx]

I always like steel wheels on original sprites, unless they are going to be raced. Then Mini-Lites. Just a personal preference. Wires are mostly work.