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New member with first question

73Midget

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Hello everyone. I joind this forum last week and love what I have been reading so far.

Here is my first question...

Last weekend I removed all the emissions/smog equipment from the engine of my 73 Midget. The car runs great but I just had a question as to what to do with some of the hoses/connections.

I placed a few pictures up on the web pointing to the exact connections in question. If someone gets a chance can you please have a look and offer some advice, hints or tips.

https://www.positive-outlook.com/mg/

Thanks,

Greg
 
The green arrow points to the vapor line from the fuel bowls. The emissions system kept a SLIGHT negative pressure on these lines. If you connect it to the vapor can at the back of the car you could generate slight positive pressure. That pressure might in turn disrupt your float bowl levels and therefore mixtures at the jets. This is just a theory. I suggest just venting the line to the bottom of the car. Also, if one of your floats get stuck open, you don't want to be pumping fuel to that rear canister.
As for the manifold lines... Plug those up (except the vacuum advance) since you have that Y pipe vented to the timing cover. Check the inside of that line periodically, if it is real oily, you may be pulling too much crank case pressure and will need to make some modifications.
 
Oh, you were asking how to plug the hole. The elbow is a press fit. I removed the elbow and plugged mine with a large allen head screw, but I tapped the threads when the manifold was removed so the I wouldn't get metal shavings into the intake. Before that the DPO used a short bit of hose and a bolt jammed in it with silicon. HTH
 
Thanks for all the help. Now I have something to do this weekend. Well, that's not to say I didn't have work to do before this (body work and paint).

I'm sure I will have some more questions in the near future.

Thanks again!!
 
Hey 73, I have a 73 also and scrapped all the emissions first off. WORD OF CAUTION BEFORE YOU PROCEED!! Make sure you still leave yourself somewhere to run the crankcase vent hose. What happens is venting the crankcase to the manifold creates a slight vacuum in the oil pan which helps reduce the amout of oil leaking from the rear main seal (or lack thereof in actuality). You see, I say REDUCE because all A-series engines have the disadvantage of being built without a rear main bearing seal. Instead there is a series of grooves that is supposed to keep the oil in the engine block. However, these grooves were built to sloppy tolerances at best and that was when they were new. The end result is a lot of jokes about oil-leaking british cars. (If it's not leaking it must be out of oil!) So, if you suck the drool back in you'll keep more oil in the pan and out of your driveway. Morriservice here in Portland, OR (same one that sells 5-speed conversion kits) sells a kit to rebuild your rear main bearing cap to solve the problem altogether but that's up to you. Good luck on the "d-emissioning".
 
As it stands now I have the crankcase vent hose connected to the (y) splitter coming off the carbs. The valve cover still has a connection for a vent hose so I am planning on getting a cover without.

As for the oil... Well that is the one thing keeping me from getting a new concrete driveway. I'm sticking with black top for now because the oil stains are harder to see.

I imagine I would have to pull the engine to rebuild the rear main bearing cap? If I only knew this last year when I rebuilt the engine. I would have saved myself some work. Oh well, like the work anyway...

Does Morriservice have a website?
 
Paul at Morrisservice doesn't have a web site, but you can contact him via email: pasgeirsson@worldnet.att.net
He's very helpful and he can send you a brochure in PDF format.
 
Yeah, Paul is a great guy and I REALLY lucked out when I was doing my 5-speed swap because he lives about 5 miles away from me here in Portland!! I was able to go to his house and get the kit directly from the man himself and ask any questions I needed. That was really helpful. Then it was at the British Field meet here in Portland (which is the largest british car show west of the Mississippi as I understand) when I ran into Paul again and he told me about the rear main seal leak and his kit. He is really helpful and very knowledgeable and, if I remember correctly, I think he said you could make the rear main bearing cap repair with the engine in the car but, for obvious reasons like ground clearance, it is a bit more difficult unless you have access to a lift. I looked at his kit for awhile and pondered it long and hard and finally decided that since I didn't have a lift and had just got done pulling the engine and tranny like 3 times in one month, that I could live with my oil leak for awhile longer but I'm definitely keeping it in mind for future possibilities.
 
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