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Hi, new member. Have a 78 MGB which I purchased and restored in 1990. Two immediate issues.
1. no turn signal lights, left or right, no indication inside that they are working and of course, no lights on the outside.
2. Radiator has some green "decay" with a bit of water showing at the seam. Advice?

Thanks a million.
 
Hi, and welcome to the forum! Your issues may have several diagnoses so stay tuned. For what it's worth, my input would be as follows......

1. Could be a faulty indicator switch, or it could be a
dodgy flasher unit, which is probably the cheapest and
easiest thing to replace. I would suggest that the
most likely culprit is the flasher unit. Have you
checked to see if there is power coming either to or
from the switch?

2. I would think about a replacement. There are probably
internal problems with the radiator, and the green
"decay and theleak are just external manifestations of
this. As I said, there will be other opinions, so stay
tuned /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
The turn signal function is totaly dependent on the hazard warning switch. Make sure that the hazard warning switch is functional. If this isnt the cause, then you probably have a wiring fault in the right side engine compartment wiring. Also check out the turn signal stalk switch.
 
Recondition or, recore if neccessary, the radiator at a reputable radiator shop.
 
noticed that the hazard warning light is not functioning and would not move to the appropriate postitions. hmmm
 
idea what that might cost? It looks like a new one is on sale at Moss for about 175.
 
Tom, only your local radiator shop will be able to give you an accurate quote, but for instance here in Michigan, I just had a Sprite radiator re-done using a thicker core for $112.00, out the door.
It would probably pay to shop around a bit, as well.
Jeff
 
Tom, Jeff,
I recently had a Sprite early Down flow radiator recored core and paid $175 for it ( the radiator guy also soldered in a threaded nipple from a junk Radiator I had for the temp. sender which had been blanked off by TFO)

I Think I paid a bit too much seeing as a new one from VB or Moss is a little over $200, But I KNOW this one fits into the car and I'm a little skeptical of the fit and fitness of import parts ( if from the far east that is - UK-seem to be good quality) BTW Moss lists em' for $185.00.

So take Jeff's advice and haul your Rad down to the local repair shop and see what it will cost you then make the call on New or Repair

I'm a new member too, so welcome to the forum - these guys really seem to know leeks from onions when it comes to LBCs!!
 
On the radiator question, from my experience and input here on the forum, there has been a lot of dissatisfaction with the cooling of the newer rads. A case of 'you get what you pay for'. Many members feel that spending up to $300 for a recore with up-graded core is by far the best investment and the answer to better cooling and longevity. LOL
Tim Matheis
 
You are always better off recoring an original radiator if possible as the fit is guaranteed to be correct and the design is sound. I recently recored my MGA radiator and while it did cost around $250 I was able to fit a MX Core, which is far more efficient than a standard core. The beauty is that the radiator still looks stock (and mostly is) but offers twice the cooling of a standard aftermarket unit.
 
Tim, You're a man after my own heart! I thought I was the only one who distrusted aftermarket critical components - Maybe now I don't feel so bad about what I paid for a recore! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif
 
The local auto parts store suggested that the flasher unit may be the problem and should be checked before the Hazard light switch. Problem is, there seem to be two flasher units in the engine compartment, one forward of the other. Any idea which one?
 
Two suggestions are flasher unit and hazard light unit. I see two round flashers right side of engine. Which is the turn signal flasher and which one controls the hazard light?
 
Tom,

Neither of those two round "Flasher Looking" things is the flasher.
Your flashers are behind your glove box up under the dash.
However, it sounds like you found your problem in that flasher switch that won't move. Rebuild or replace and you should be good on the t/s issue.

BTW:
The under hood guys are relays.
and the flasher units themselves are not as likely as other items, such as the hazard switch or turn signal stalk, to fail

Mike
 
Is there a way to "by pass" the hazard light switch to find out if that is the problem?
 
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