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New hydraulic resevior
- Thread starter ekamm
- Start date
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TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I have had good luck just loosening the fitting at the outlet of the MC, and working it like a bleed valve. Easier if you have someone to help by operating the pedal, but can be done by sticking a big screwdriver into the hole and prying on the pushrod.
Loosen the fitting, compress the MC, wait for the bubbles to stop, tighten the fitting, release the MC. Repeat until clear fluid (no bubbles).
Of course, if you are using DOT 3/4, you might want to go ahead and bench bleed, to avoid any chance of dripping paint remover (aka glycol-based brake fluid) onto your paint.
Loosen the fitting, compress the MC, wait for the bubbles to stop, tighten the fitting, release the MC. Repeat until clear fluid (no bubbles).
Of course, if you are using DOT 3/4, you might want to go ahead and bench bleed, to avoid any chance of dripping paint remover (aka glycol-based brake fluid) onto your paint.
G
Guest
Guest
Guest
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Something to contemplate: changing to DOT 5, synthetic, and not worrying about an accidental drip onto your nice paint. Just a thought.
OP
ekamm
Jedi Warrior
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I am doing a just get her on the road resto. and no really nice paint but in the event that I win the lottery and am able to restore it properly dot 5 would be good.I did a bench type bleed on the master while on the car and bled the brakes and worked well. The only problem was that I couldn't turn one bleeder, the last on was stripped so I'll have to get another and do again. But for now I have brakes, a little soft but they work.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Just my opinion, but I feel DOT 5 will save you money in the long run anyway. I noticed a big reduction in hydraulic problems after I switched. No more frozen bleed screws either.ekamm said:
And since it's totally non-corrosive, you won't ever see this, either:
