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Hi,
I have just bought a 1975 TR6, french Blue, had a bare metal respray some years ago and rebuilt dif. Under bonnet a bit scruffy and seats need new foam but otherwise very solid, no rust in frame either. Compression test 130-132 on all cylinders (7.75:1 or 8.5:1?)
This replaces an AC Cobra replica which I built, so much fun to build and drive, even for a retiree like me. I plan to tune the TR and change from LHD to RHD for return to UK. Increasing Compression ratio to 9.5:1 with street cam should get me to 140hp and reliable according to local sources.
Many questions but here are a couple I would like to solve soon
1. Is putting in hardened valve seats and bigger valves a good idea.
2. Change to RHD requires a different clutch pedal/linkage and master cylinder but the Haynes manual and Rimmer diagrams don't show exactly how. Diagrams or pictures would be very useful.
Thanks for any help, glad to join the forum
Regards,
Michael
I have just bought a 1975 TR6, french Blue, had a bare metal respray some years ago and rebuilt dif. Under bonnet a bit scruffy and seats need new foam but otherwise very solid, no rust in frame either. Compression test 130-132 on all cylinders (7.75:1 or 8.5:1?)
This replaces an AC Cobra replica which I built, so much fun to build and drive, even for a retiree like me. I plan to tune the TR and change from LHD to RHD for return to UK. Increasing Compression ratio to 9.5:1 with street cam should get me to 140hp and reliable according to local sources.
Many questions but here are a couple I would like to solve soon
1. Is putting in hardened valve seats and bigger valves a good idea.
2. Change to RHD requires a different clutch pedal/linkage and master cylinder but the Haynes manual and Rimmer diagrams don't show exactly how. Diagrams or pictures would be very useful.
Thanks for any help, glad to join the forum
Regards,
Michael
