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TR4/4A New Generator vs Alternator vs BPNW Alternator/Generator

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ghawk16

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So I don't have much faith in the generator that is in the car right now. I tore it apart and it didn't look well. Part of me just wants to buy a new generator while on sale at TRF. I've also eyed the Alternator/Generator that BPNW sells and thought that would be neat. Thing is I rarely see myself overloading the system since I won't be driving at night much, I don't have a radio and I doubt I'll ever use the heater unless I move to a colder climate state so the Alt/Gen seems overkill. I've never really thought of an alternator conversion as I prefer to keep it looking a bit stock looking. Has anyone had any problems with the TRF Generators? Thru research it seems some of the early batches of Alternator/Generators had issues but haven't heard of that lately. What do the fine minds of BCF think?
 
I am changing all my cars over slowly to the denso alternator. Biggest issue is the wide pulley but I have a local guy that machined a couple pulleys for me. After that its pretty easy. I strip out the old voltage regulator and connect all the wiring thru it. Gives it the original look for wiring.
Marv
 
In the mid '60s, I had a '63 TR4 that I was driving up in Boston while attending Northeaster U. There would be times that the heater fan, lights, wiper and radio were all going, and I rarely ran into problems with the battery going dead. As much as I'm a fan of alternators, in your situation, especially wanting to keep the stock appearance, the easiest and least costly alternative is just to get the new generator from TRF.
 
I am not familiar with the new unit from TRF. For many years the usual replacement from Goleta was an Asian version which worked but was visibly different from the originals (e.g. cast iron end plates instead of alloy).

I prefer to just have the original rebuilt -- it is not a costly thing to do. For me the generators have never been much trouble though I always carry a spare on roadtrips.
 
You can still get a decent rebuilt generator at Oreillys, which is nice if you have a problem during a trip - which I did last year in Tucson. Lifetime guarentee to boot.
 
Thought I be of the minority opinion but I guess others like the old generators too. Alternators are more powerful but the generator supplies power enough as long as you stay away from the halogen headlights and such. It is also quite reliable.
There are still quite a few local re builders around and the last one I had done a couple of years ago was under $100.
If not, Moss has original re builts for $129, after you get your @200 core charge back. I am not familiar with the TRF options.
I've also had some success tuning them up myself with a new bearing, bushing and brush set.
Tom
 
I replaced my failing Lucas generator with a new TRF generator a little over three years ago.
The unit has been reliable and puts out plenty of power for my needs.
You do have to transfer the pulley, fan spacer and fan from your old unit and install them on the new generator.

M.
 
Merlin63Tr4 said:
I replaced my failing Lucas generator with a new TRF generator a little over three years ago.
The unit has been reliable and puts out plenty of power for my needs.
You do have to transfer the pulley, fan spacer and fan from your old unit and install them on the new generator.

M.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Yeah...my generator was working on positive ground when I started dismantling the car. I disassembled the generator and cleaned it up. Will it do any good? Did I mess something up? Who knows. But maybe I'll give it a shot and go from there.

You have any experience with starting up engines for the first time after a rebuild? Looking for someone local to come help start mine up for the first time. While I did the whole rebuild and am familiar with the car, I'm not familiar with "symptoms" that may come up when starting up an engine for the first time. I've read all the processes but hands on knowledge is always better IMHO.
 
Back when I had my Bugeye Sprite, I installed an ammeter, and I was stunned to see how high the current drain on the battery was at idle, at night, with almost everything on. This was with stock lights and such; nothing special in the electrical system. I installed an alternator, a 55 amp one, and didn't really need the ammeter any more, because it always sat close to zero. I was pleased at how well the modern alternator, with its greater power at idle and built-in regulator, balanced the electrical loads.

Keep in mind, that 20A generator provides 20 amps only at speed, not at idle. So, if you sit in traffic a lot with lights on, an alternator might be a good idea.

One of the problems with the generator is not the generator itself, but that primitive regulator box. You can find solid-state replacements for the regulator, and while I have some concerns about some I've seen, they still might be a good option and might help keep the battery charged better. Obviously, they can't provide power that the generator won't provide, but they can balance the load better and keep the battery charged better, so at those times when you're running on the battery, there is more power available. Also, it can keep the battery charged to a higher voltage, which helps to prevent sulfation and will increase battery life.

I've heard some bad things about that alternator that looks like a generator: reliability problems, mostly. This is anecdotal, of course, so perhaps it shouldn't be taken too seriously. Still, I've heard more than one story, and there probably aren't a huge number of these units in use.

All that said, I've rebuilt the generator for the TR4A I'm restoring, and I'll start out with that. If I find that I need the additional power, I may convert to an alternator. I think I will start with an electronic regulator, though.
 
I ordered a pulley from this company. It fit the Remy alternator I used. Correct width for the standard TR belt.

David

https://www.ase-supply.com/product_p/ni-p-159.htm

Marvin Gruber said:
I am changing all my cars over slowly to the denso alternator. Biggest issue is the wide pulley but I have a local guy that machined a couple pulleys for me. After that its pretty easy. I strip out the old voltage regulator and connect all the wiring thru it. Gives it the original look for wiring.
Marv
Click to expand...
 
Sarastro said:
Back when I had my Bugeye Sprite, I installed an ammeter, and I was stunned to see how high the current drain on the battery was at idle, at night, with almost everything on. This was with stock lights and such; nothing special in the electrical system. I installed an alternator, a 55 amp one, and didn't really need the ammeter any more, because it always sat close to zero. I was pleased at how well the modern alternator, with its greater power at idle and built-in regulator, balanced the electrical loads.

Keep in mind, that 20A generator provides 20 amps only at speed, not at idle. So, if you sit in traffic a lot with lights on, an alternator might be a good idea.

One of the problems with the generator is not the generator itself, but that primitive regulator box. You can find solid-state replacements for the regulator, and while I have some concerns about some I've seen, they still might be a good option and might help keep the battery charged better. Obviously, they can't provide power that the generator won't provide, but they can balance the load better and keep the battery charged better, so at those times when you're running on the battery, there is more power available. Also, it can keep the battery charged to a higher voltage, which helps to prevent sulfation and will increase battery life.

I've heard some bad things about that alternator that looks like a generator: reliability problems, mostly. This is anecdotal, of course, so perhaps it shouldn't be taken too seriously. Still, I've heard more than one story, and there probably aren't a huge number of these units in use.

All that said, I've rebuilt the generator for the TR4A I'm restoring, and I'll start out with that. If I find that I need the additional power, I may convert to an alternator. I think I will start with an electronic regulator, though.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was looking at the electronic/digital regulator that BPNW sells. Thing is, if I get that then go to an alternator you really don't need it since the regulator is then in the alternator. But I've seen where some bypass or remove it.
 
TomMull said:
You will need to polarize the newly cleaned generator by grounding the field. Find instructions on line or in the service manual. It is also a good idea to crank the engine with the stater motor, spark plugs out, until you have oil pressure. Keep the leads away from any potential gas fumes.
If new cam or lifters run in at around 2000 RPM.
Might want to read over this:
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?92622-Tips-for-Breaking-in-a-Rebuilt-TR3-Engine
Tom
Click to expand...

Yep...I plan to do all you mentioned above. Still nervous about it! They say to run it for like 15min at 2000RPM for the cams and lifters to settle but what happens if 5min into that something doesn't sound right and I have to shut it down? Does it make a difference? What if I have to start and stop 2-3 times to adjust items during that 15min. Those are the questions I have. I do have that thread saved already. Good pointers for sure in that thread.
 
If you have to stop because of severe leaks, unusual noises or something catastrophic about to happen, then of course shut it down, but minor adjustments can be done later. The purpose of running at 2000-3000 rpm is to get enough splash lubrication going on during this critical time. Once when a buddy of mine was firing up for the first time on his 3B, we had to shut down once because of bad coolant leak about 10 minutes in. We started up again, ran it another 10 minutes at 2500 and all is well. Just try to get all the ducks in a row before starting, and don't worry so much.
 
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