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DougF

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My new TR6 engine is officially in the works. The block has been cleaned and the cylinders bored 30 over. Tomorrow, it will get line bored and the crank goes in for turning. I have a bit of work before everything gets balanced.
Then, we will move on to the head. I want to be finished with machine work before the bulk of the race business hits.
I'm hoping the excitement sinks in after all the bills are paid.
 
Hi Doug,
Looks like you are doing a nice job with your engine. The line boring and balancing will be well worth the time and money. I am really glad I had mine done anyway. Just wondering if you are going to install cam bearings?
 
Doug,

Did you send the damper and clutch in for balancing as well? How about the water pump, while he's at it? No time better than now.

Are you balancing the flywheel or going aluminum? I still had my aluminum unit checked, but it was dead on.
 
I have the cam bearings on the shelf. The shop is measuring for clearances to see if they're needed.
I haven't sent anything over yet for balancing. I lightened my rods and am finishing the balancing before they go to the shop. The flywheel is ready to be lightened and balanced. I am probably going to use the clutch in the car. Not too many miles on it and I don't want to spend where I don't have to.
I have a lot less money than I did a few months ago.
Although most of the parts are on the shelf, I still have to get several. I've been kicking around the Good cold air box, but there is time before that decision is made. The triple Strombergs are on the shelf.
I have a cam on the shelf but am very interested in a different one that a few club members are using and really like.
Money, decisions and skinned knuckles and I'll be done.
 
Doug,

It only cost another $20 to have the pressure plate balanced when I had mine done, which is why I suggested it. Short money at this point.
 
speaking of cam bearings, is it possible to find cam bearing that fit the block as is and turn the journals on the cam down? just a thought
 
Not such a good idea, IMHO. The cam is hardened and the bearings should be fit in the block, then mated to the cam, rather than the other way around.
 
Point well taken. The biggest problem now is pulling the engine this far out to access the clutch. I will have to swap the current transmission which also involves an overdrive when The new motor goes in. At that time, I can have it balanced separately, which isn't necessarily the best way, but better than none.
My money comment was mainly directed to the line boring and installation of cam bearings. There aren't many shops in the area that have equipment that will work on our engines. Hence, the prices I've heard are astronomical. If my engine specs out, I won't have the work done.
This is not my first engine, but I plan on it being my best.
 
Paul raises an appropriate concern.

The only way that I would grind the cam down(and I did a little research on bearing source a couple decades back. Is going with needle roller shells, like Merces and others used on their transmissions. That is the ONLY way I would consider not boring the block for the GT bearing inserts..... Couldn't find the right size bearings at that time.
 
One gentleman in our club went to 50. 30 leaves room for more builds, hopefully not necessary. Most of the aggression comes from the head, cam helps a lot too, and carbs.... His 50 over bore has a very distinctive exhaust note.
Maybe if the driving season ever returns, I can let you know how aggressive it is.
 
I just ordered the cold air box with performance air cleaner today. I bought the tunnel with cutouts for oil cooler...just in case. I have a cooler, just need to drill and tap the filter adapter and make up lines.
I also purchased a vernier cam gear yesterday. Impulse. I know I can get by without it, but one of my customers had a new one on the shelf for a very good price. I want to get the timing spot on.
I still need to purchase push rods, but am waiting to see how much has to come off the head. I did some combustion chamber work, so more will have to be cut off to compensate.
The machine work is done with the block. The balancing and head are still in the works
It's moving slowly, more my fault than the engine shop.
I needed to send the annulus to my A-type overdrive out for resurfacing, but was able to find a good used one for a considerable savings. Everyone gets lucky now and then.
I'm still looking at spring to do the engine/tranny swap.
 
Good!!! You're managing to wade thru it apace. We'd like some pix, BTW. :wink:
 
I'm currently at a photographic standstill. My camera does floppies and my computer don't. Any photo I could take would never compare to your avatar. Classic.
 
Ooof.

Show Jim. He'll get a kick outta it. Kenny too. :wink:
 
Just had lunch with Jim yesterday. He's doing well. Ken is in hybernation. He has some horses and evidently doesn't want to feel the cold much beyond caring for them. They are in the midst of building an old street rod that Jim owned years ago. A '37 Chevy coupe that will be putting out in the area of 1,000 ponies. I just want to hear it! I saw some pictures, it will be a very nice car. They've put a lot of research into the build...naturally.

There are some interesting cars in the yard. A DB5 that sat for 20+ years, a vintage racer TVR, and the list goes on and on.

I'm thinking of driving by the shop tomorrow.
 
After 15 months of being at the shop, the call came this morning that the machine work is done on my motor. Picking it up in the morning.
Looking at sending the rods out for shot peening since they've been lightened a bit. The flywheel was lightened to 20 lbs. Everything is balanced. I still need to clean everything real well and paint.
The head was cut to CR slightly north of 9.5-1, but the deck couldn't be cut and fortunately didn't need it.
So tomorrow starts the building. I should have the new engine and transmission ready to install when the weather warms to where it is comfortable to work outside.
Looking forward to it.
 
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