New engine progress, Thursday evening

[swift6]

I believe the offer was made to me unless I misjudged the post timing and response. Trick6's engine and mine are actually fairly close. I have a wilder camshaft, different header and exhaust but otherwise they are very close. Even the decking of the block is close, I'm beyond zero deck and Trick6 might be as well. Mine breezed right past 110hp at the rear wheels with a poor state of tune and without altitude correction.

BTW, from other TR6's dyno runs that I have seen, with completely stock cars, the drive-train loss is almost exactly 20%. I've seen three stock internal (though fairly fresh rebuilds) TR6's run on a dyno. One used a stock air filter set up and exhaust (late car with dual down-pipe and exhaust), one had K&N air filters and the Twin Sports Dual exhaust. the last one had K&N filters, a Moss Header and a Monza exhaust. The rear wheel hp for all three were in the mid 80's.Pretty straight forward proof to me that the only thing the different intake and exhaust options did on an otherwise stock internal engine was change the sound. Both the suck and the blow. :wink:

 

[Brosky]

The best that I could get on the dyno last summer was 89 HP at the rear and I was way too rich at the top. I'm looking forward to doing it again this summer.

 

[TheSearcherMan]

I wouldn't disagree with you at all Swift, however I mite point out the other part, mixture in the ballpart, at idle and through out the range. He also has 10:1 compression and different ratio roller rocker, I would assume somewhat of an increase with this. Are you running the same compression and roller rockers? I just ran mine with the Innovate, ZS's just won't work, at least if you have another life, and don't have time for hrs and hrs of experimenting. I will probably try to make an appointment for a dyno run next week. I want to know what I get from Webers or FI. If stock is mid 80's, I am running more than this, cause mine is no comparison to stock, they're sick. By the way, I ran 12.4 AF at full throttle, and say 15-16 at idle. Idle sucks.

 

[Trick6]

OPPS. Did I step into something? I thought that the offer was open to tri carb 6's.

I do not expect you to pay for an old dyno test. I thought that this was to be a new dyno test, not old ones. I am willing to do another dyno test with you selecting the dyno. Heck, the old one was Jan 07 with the wrong needles, the motor was way rich. I really don't want to take your money because this is a friendly world, but my car is over 110 HP now without induction and FI.` If you still wish to do this, just tell me your rules. I will send you all records in PDF format untouched. I will also video tape the session if you like. Just tell me where you are comfortable. Oh, by the way, I won this tear on many bets I placed with the Giants to beat the Patriots and win the super bowl, without the points.

 

[TheSearcherMan]

So, are you saying you are running a somewhat correct mixture from idle to say 5800?

 

[Trick6]

I am not sure what you mean by a correct mixture from idle. Please explain. Are you saying to stay about 13.5 to 15 AFR from idle to peek HP production?

The last dyno test indicated a lean mixture of 15.5 at 1700 RPM and I that is where the load started. It then went rich pretty quickly recording 11.5 at 3000 and then 11.0 at 3500 and remained there to 5200. The O2 was taken with a tail pipe adapter. I did not have the O2 sensor bung at the time. I attempted to lean it by screwing out the needles until they floated but there was no change. WRONG NEEDLES. They were not the stock B1AF's. I am now running the stock needles and it is much better. I actually had to screw these fully in to get some soot on the plugs. I have a pretty nice plug read now but the dyno will tell the tail. I am after an O2 sensor set up now that I have the bung welded in the SS header collector.

 

[swift6]

I wouldn't disagree with you at all Swift, however I mite point out the other part, mixture in the ballpart, at idle and through out the range. He also has 10:1 compression and different ratio roller rocker, I would assume somewhat of an increase with this. Are you running the same compression and roller rockers?

He is running more total compression, but we are using the same ratio roller rockers.

I just ran mine with the Innovate, ZS's just won't work, at least if you have another life, and don't have time for hrs and hrs of experimenting. I will probably try to make an appointment for a dyno run next week. I want to know what I get from Webers or FI. If stock is mid 80's, I am running more than this, cause mine is no comparison to stock, they're sick. By the way, I ran 12.4 AF at full throttle, and say 15-16 at idle. Idle sucks.

If you don't think you will need lots of time and dyno runs to dial in the Weber's even close to your demanding standards, you better think again. Regardless, you still won't get the exact even mixture across the rev range that you seem to be looking for without going to fuel injection and extremely accurate O2 sensors.

I think you're actually making a mountain out of a molehill. Unless the lean mixture is close to melting your pistons or the rich side is washing down your cylinder walls with fuel, you're chasing a level of efficiency not possible with carburetors. Which is why modern manufacturers don't use them anymore.

What are you running and what have you done to your engine?

 

[TheSearcherMan]

Well, when you say what am I running, I can have it either way, lean at idle, and, likely I can get the full throttle close enough, or, I can run idle from 14.3 to 15, and run rich at full throttle. You have to have an A/F meter to see it, but, it won't idle right above 15. Also, when you rev the engine up, and it comes back to idle, it stumbles for about 20 seconds, the meter shows why, it goes into the 20's on the A/F meter, and then settle down to the 14. 7. In other words, it don't idle smooth if you are running lean. I'll keep playing with it, and you are right, I am being picky. I don't have any air leaks either. I have a GP 2, 9:1 comp., TR5 dist. curve., thats it. Note, today it is 20 degrees colder, idle mixture is over 17, thats to be expected. I am going to move toward EFI. I'll get the original manifolds, remove and plug the throttle shaft holes, use one throttle body, and use Megasquirt, and extrudabody fuel rail, Ford pump, and most likely Ford injectors and throttle body, and MAP sensor. At least thats the plan now, could change. I'll also install the larger valves, do massive P&P on the head, and most likely a CP cam, and maybe roller rockers.

 

[swift6]

Have you tried different springs and viscosities of oil in the damper assemblies?

 

[Trick6]

Swift6
That is the right question. Damper oil. I am using ATF in the damper. It allows a quick flight of the diaphragm. There is a lot to learn about the Stromberg. It is simple and responsive. But you need to note what you changed and what the motor did. And change one thing at a time to record cause and effect.