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TR2/3/3A new engine ideas

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sp53

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Very recently I acquired a started project car that came with new engine parts. I tried pushing the pistons out of the sleeves by hand with no luck. Now I am thinking to use a block of wood and hammer would be best. But, then again hammers are my go to tool that can cause damage. So has anyone on the forum had any experience with this kind of thing. Thanks in advance,

Steve
 

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Soak in PB blaster for a day or so, and then hammer with a wooden block should work great. Once you break the dried grease, or rust, they should slide out pretty easily.
 
Yes I am hoping the crud that is holding the piston in place in not a problem. The material that I can see that they are stuck in is some type of cosmoline, and I have been trying to loosen it with WD40. The rings could be rusted also in addition to the cosmoline. I will have to see when I get them lose to be sure.

Thanks Steve
 
sp53 said:
Yes I am hoping the crud that is holding the piston in place in not a problem. The material that I can see that they are stuck in is some type of cosmoline, and I have been trying to loosen it with WD40. The rings could be rusted also in addition to the cosmoline. I will have to see when I get them lose to be sure.
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So the prior owner disconnected the connecting rods and bearings, then removed the pistons and liners together, in sets? I'm trying to figure out how that all could happen. On all rebuilds I've done or assisted, we knocked the pistons up from the bottom after carefully protecting the crankshaft, then we removed the sleeves with gentle raps and a wood shaft from underneath. The figure 8s and sealer sometimes necessitated a more firm rap on the wooden shaft. I think I used a 1/2 or 3/4 shaft, and no problem at all.

But your pistons and sleeves are out of the car. I would think you'll be fine carefully rapping the pistons, and I'd do it from the bottom. Pushing the pistons out the top. You'll be getting new rings, anyway. You'll make your own judgment on new pistons and sleeves. I always opted for new items though I realize some folks here feel we shouldn't replace items just because they're old.

I realize you may be "done" with your fix by now. If not, just fyi I think PB Blaster is a good step to take even if you still need to swing that hammer, but I don't think it will necessarily save the condition of your current parts.
 
These pistons and sleeves are NOS probably from the 1980ites. My concern was the rings are on the pistons, and I did not want to do something that could damage them. I thought first of turning the piston in the sleeve so not to move them up and down. I tried knocking them out yesterday with a block of wood with some love but no joy. I guess I need to hit them harder. I guess the worst that could happen is a ring could break.

steve
 
I’m sure someone else here may have a different experience, or different knowledge, but I’ve purchased at least five piston and liner sets in my years of tinkering, and I have never received a “new“ set of pistons that were installed in the sleeves with rings on. Maybe that’s a common practice, but I’m not aware of it.

I can’t even imagine someone using a ring compressor to install pistons in sleeves outside the engine block.

This is probably one of those many instances where I’m about to learn something new.

Also—I would think all tapping and pushing should be from the bottom, going upward. The pic makes it appear the pistons are quite low. And with rings on . . . .

I guess if I had this problem, I’d run some motor oil down around those pistons, add some gentle heat from a heat/air gun and firmly tap the pistons up from the bottom. I could see some force being needed.
 
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If you look close at the pics, you will see a ring at the bottom of the piston; at least I think that is what I see. These are old 4 ring pistons with a ring on the bottom. I have a heat gun and like the idea and will try that latter today.

steve
 
In the picture with the wrist pin there is a thin black line at the bottom of the piston, only about an inch is visible. I am assuming that is a ring. I will tap on the piston some more and see.

I want to do the body first this time, so I am moving slower on the engine plus it is summer here, kinda. Last time, I built the engine first and did not run it again for a few years after I started it. I think this contributor to my early engine failure. John tried to politely warn me and suggested one should not let a new rebuilt engine sit too long and perhaps if so one should undo the rock shaft to take pressure off the cam and valves. One of My cam lobs wore off. however, I am on the hunt for a low port head

Steve
 
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