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New custom Bugeye wiring harness

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David_Doan

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So after paint, my next step is the wiring harness. I need to start sourcing all the stuff. The original one is cut out and gone. I'm going to make a new one from scratch with appropriate fuses, relays, and wire gage. There will be enough changes that it does not make sense to buy a new one and modify it. Here's a short list of the significant changes from stock:


  • Negative Ground
  • Alternator with internal regulator
  • Electric fuel pump
  • Front tilt - new routing for headlight and front signal light wires
  • Horn and lights on relays
  • Add 12V ACC socket
  • More than 2 fuses
  • Electric Tach
  • Maybe electric cooling fan

I will keep everything about the wiring project in this thread for reference. My goal is to keep it neat and have as few wires visible as possible.

5/8/2013 Update #1: Here's the 1st document - Functional Diagram

BugeyeFunctionalWiring.JPG

I started with a state table of what should be on at the combinations of O, S, H and the Key. Then laid out what devices share fuses and relays.

Thanks,

David
 
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When I answered your PM, I was thinking of a stock harness. Sorry. Anyway, I got all my supplies at Rhode Island Wire (https://riwire.com) and British Wiring (https://britishwiring.com). Both have all the proper multi-colored wire for British cars. If you go with solid colors only as offered by the above, you will surely have some conflicts and confusion, sooner as well as later. Proper materials are not cheap but the amount of work and worry involved in building a harness from scratch will pretty well overshadow the cost anyway.
 
When I made my custom Bugeye harness I went with mostly standard Lucas colors. There are a few exceptions, but most anyone that knows British cars would be able to sort it out.
 
British Wiring. Wire sold by the Meter that is correctly color coded. Think about the next owner of this car or 2 or 3 owners down the road. And document what has been done to pass it on. Don't use a single color wire please for the sake of a future owner and troubleshooting for yourself. I do believe British Wiring can accommodate the changes you are thinking about making. Now the $ cost I can't speculate but the wire I purchased from them was top notch and they were nice folks to deal with.
 
Quick disconnect for front harness is a simple 6 way trailer plug.
 
I have the exact same set up in my 'frogeye' at the moment and the original harness that has been changed around looks a right mess.

Do you have a wiring diagram for your plans? I know very little about relays and such like and such a plan would be really appreciated rather than having to reinvent the wheel per say!

sebringsprite.blogspot.com
 
BillW103 said:
This is what I did with the electrical. It all hinges on the fire wall and drops down for access. Not very stock but works well.

View attachment 26949View attachment 26950
Click to expand...

I like that! I'm still trying to decide how I want to do mine. I was thinking something similar to yours or a fuse/relay box in the location of the old regulator, or a fuse/relay box under the passenger side blanking plate.
 
Talonaer said:
I have the exact same set up in my 'frogeye' at the moment and the original harness that has been changed around looks a right mess.

Do you have a wiring diagram for your plans? I know very little about relays and such like and such a plan would be really appreciated rather than having to reinvent the wheel per say!

sebringsprite.blogspot.com
Click to expand...


I do not have a complete one yet, but I will post it on my blog and here when I do. My target for completion of the car is June 29. I want to take it to the Texas Dream Cruise (www.texasdreamcruise.com) in Frisco, TX. It is going to be tight since I travel 3-5 days a week.
 
Thanks David. That would be really really appreciated.

I think Im going for a centre console with an ammeter or volt meter in it, and to have circuit breakers and toggles for the lights there as well. The twisty ignition switch light system I have is a bit worn and needs replacement.
 
David,

I also decided I'm making too many modifications to bother with an original harness. I'm rewiring my Midget using wiring from Jegs. The wire is very high quality, I have no complaints. I'm using F-crimp (or "open barrel") connectors which crimp both the wire and the insulation. I purchased connectors from DigiKey, which easily lets you choose gauge and connector size. I looked at fuse and relay blocks at my local stores and I wasn't impressed, so I'm mounting relays to a sheet metal bracket under the dash and using in-line fuses to keep things simple. Hope this helps. :smile:

Mark
 
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62Migit said:
David,

I also decided I'm making too many modifications to bother with an original harness. I'm rewiring my Midget using wiring from Jegs. The wire is very high quality, I have no complaints. I'm using F-crimp (or "open barrel") connectors which crimp both the wire and the insulation. I purchased connectors from DigiKey, which easily lets you choose gauge and connector size. I looked at fuse and relay blocks at my local stores and I wasn't impressed, so I'm mounting relays to a sheet metal bracket under the dash and using in-line fuses to keep things simple. Hope this helps. :smile:

Mark
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark, I'm leaning the same direction as you. i was hopping to find a fuse/relay block like this:

IMG_6910.jpg
 
62Migit said:
David,

I also decided I'm making too many modifications to bother with an original harness. I'm rewiring my Midget using wiring from Jegs. The wire is very high quality, I have no complaints. I'm using F-crimp (or "open barrel") connectors which crimp both the wire and the insulation. I purchased connectors from DigiKey, which easily lets you choose gauge and connector size. I looked at fuse and relay blocks at my local stores and I wasn't impressed, so I'm mounting relays to a sheet metal bracket under the dash and using in-line fuses to keep things simple. Hope this helps. :smile:

Mark
Click to expand...

Just looked at your blog... We've done a lot of the same work and even have similar blogs. Saw a post about your heater valve leaking. Looks like your heater is gone, if its going to stay gone you can just pull the heater valve and put a blanking plate on it.
 
Since the discussion started with making your own harness from scratch I thought I would mention the product linked to below, split braided harness cover:
https://painlesswiring.com/webcatal...st=43&totalRows_FindKeywordrst=585&partsearch=

Two acquaintances of mine have used the products above to cover their homemade wiring harnesses. Being braided it retains part of the early car look while the split in the braid allows for installation over the harness.
 
I've used a similar product from Jegs, and I like it.
 
Same here from Jegs. Not cheap but really worked well.
 
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