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New Crypt Car problem

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Tinster

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The Crypt Car has been marginally operational for the past
three days. I didn't post anything for fear something new
would blow up or break down. Glad I didn't post good news.
Crypt Car broken down again and going back on jack stands
after only 8 miles of use..


WOW!!! I have driven the car a grand total of 8 miles
since it came down off jack stands. The periods between
Crypt Car break downs are getting smaller and shorter and
shorter. The car is no longer marginally operational.
Now it barely functions as a running engine of any type.

Facts for diagnostics/problem solving:

It's my 58th B-day and Wendy's taking me to a beach
nursing home for old pfarrrrrrrrrrr ts for 4 days.

Timing set at 15*
All plugs in place and new and gapped .025"
New Coil and all ignition wires new
GM alternator new and Dan Masters wired
Petronic ignition new
Paul Rego throttle busings new
Jeff Palya carbs and intake manifold new
Both tiny carb ear tubes in place to dizzy.
Jeff Schlemmer distributor new
Ignition switch new
Battery new
Fuel pump refurbished and functional
New fuel lines with 5 in-line filters-more or less
warm idle at 900 rpm
Operating temperature 160* thermostat.
All ground wires new and many.
Dan Master entire car wire harness Power Block
5 gallons brand new high test gasoline added to new tank.

Nothing changed between yesterday and today other
than I tightened down the rad cap.

The car now backfires something terrible. Thru the
exhaust pipes (I think )

Rough idle now.

The car will not accelerate but bogs down,hesitates
and backfires. I WILL stumble up to higher speeds but
nothing smooth about it.

So what DPO Pedro part I don't know about has broken down
now? I can't image what it might be? Any and all help
appreciated. A broken piston or busted head gasket?
The tail pipes don't throw clouds of smoke.

I know you TR6 gurus will have solved my new problem and
come up with a long list of new parts to order by my return
next week.

Thanks again, /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thankyousign.gif

d
 
I know this won't make you feel any better, but there are guys with verrrry expensive motors that have to tear them down every quarter mile.
 
STOP!!!!

Don't spend any money!!!!

first things first

Make ABSOLUTELY certain that the firing order is set correctly

ABSOLUTELY.

I dont have the 6 order committed to memory but I am willing to bet you a tall cold Mojito that you have one spark plug wire switched.

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Did the same myself - exact same symptoms.

someone will come along and confirm the correct order.

Don't overthink it and talk yourself out of it. Check the firing order as soon as possible.

I'm perfectly fine with being wrong... but given your level of frustration in this car I'd hate to see you commit to a bunch of additional craziness for something this simple.

Good luck! We're pulling for you buddy /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
Timing sounds a little early to me. I run at 10 BTDC. I'm not a fluid dynamics expert but 5 filters may be a little over the top. With all you've done to the fuel system one should be sufficient. I would progressively remove a filter, drive it, remove another, drive it, etc. to see if your stumble clears up.

Gordo
 
Tinster said:
Timing set at 15*
Click to expand...
Why so fast ? Should be more like 10-12 BTDC with the retard disconnected; 4 ATDC with it connected.

Think I'd start with a quick compression test, to rule out internal problems (perhaps caused by your little boilover episode). While you're at it, inspect the plugs for signs of problems.

Then, given all the stories I've heard of peculiar failures and personal experience with aftermarket ignitions, I'd probably put the points back in; plus double-check plug & ignition wires for tight connections. Wouldn't hurt to put the old rotor back in, either, as new ones sometimes fail quickly.
 
Sounds like a loose or possibly crossed plug wire to me. Maybe a crack in the cap.

I agree on the rotor as a possible suspect.

This sounds basic.
 
With all of the ignition stuff that the Tinster has been through, I'll bet that he has the firing order branded on his arm. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif But in case you don't Dale....1-5-3-6-2-4... and, yes, it would be something to check. The symptoms indicate it may be the problem. Of course, Dale only mentioned that he tightened the radiator cap. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/driving.gif
 
Tinnie:
This really sounds like a tuning problem. i think that the boilover is related to your current problems.
That sounds a lot like the problem that I had last year with my TR3. The boil over is likely related to having the timing too far advanced- it causes too much of the combustion heat to be retained in the combustion chamber. I had my only boil over on my car when I advanced the timing too far.
Last year I had a terrible backfire, stumble, miss... just like you are having. I checked the firing order and all of the other suggestions given here and then I bit the bullet and pulled out my old blue bentleys manual and started setting everything to the suggested factory specs. timing (one the TR3 you set it static-don't know about the 6), carb settings: jets, choke, etc. It turned out that with all of my various attempts to "fix" the problems I had gotten everything way out of the optimum range and trying to cure the timing by adjusting the carbs just made everything worse.
Then I got it to fire and spent about two hours really tuning it (used my color tune) and got it very close to spot on. It runs like a champ now.
By the way; I carry a spare set of points and a condensor and that is it and I only had to get a tow when I ran out of gas once.
 
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif Dale,

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
Holy Smokes Dale:
What a B Day Present Crypty has awarded you! Psssst don`t let Wendy leave you at the Beach. {could it be a subtile hint that you are loosing it with this Tr.} /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/lol.gif

On a more Serious note, what could possibly change from day to day and 8 miles of running. A crossed wire or wires I would think would rear thier ugly head/s immediately upon starting the engine.
All that I have read {basicaly on this forum} on these electronic ingintions, i`m not all that impressed with them.
I really doubt that anything internal is wrong with your engine.
The symptoms you describe lead me to believe it is an ignition/timing or fuel delivery problem {carbs out of whack, too much fuel pump pressure, or something simular.

Start with the distributor, check it out carefully to ensure the rotor & cap are in good condition. recheck the fireing order just to ease your mind about that issue. Check to ensure that all wires to the coil and distributor are making a good connection
If all of the above are in order, check or re set the static timing.
Once you have eliminated the ignition as the cullprit, move on the the fuel delivery system. Make sure you have adequate fuel in the float chambers and that the floats are not sticking. Ensure that you have adequate flow from the fuel tank. Ensure that the rich/lean mixture is set properly and that the choke mechanisms are working correctly.
All it takes is one small piece of debirs to fowel a carberator.
One last thing make sure a vacume line hasn`t become disloged, or cracked.

You also might want to remove the spark plugs and take a look at each one they all should be simular in color at the electrodes. A good indicator of a leaking head gasket is one or two {side by side} plugs will be much cleaner than the others. Black sooty plugs indicate unburnt fuel {either inadequate ignition or an overly rich fuel mixture}.
Chalk white would indicate a lean fuel mixture.
They all should be on the darker tan side or even near powder grey. But not black and deffinately not wet.
OH ...... AND ........ HAPPY BIRTH DAY!!!
Kerry
 
First determine that it is really firing in the pipe, not into the air cleaner. Check that the carb dampers have enough oil. Check the timing again.Although there are timing specs, they are not set in stone. If the car runs ok at 15 btdc, and does not ping, it should be OK.The car should run with both the advance and retard disconnected. You can do this as a test run. It will only have centrifugal advance that way, so it might be a little down on power, but it should not be a huge difference. Check that it is making good spark. If you remove the coil wire from the cap, and secure it approximately 1/4 inch from the block, and crank the engine, you should get a fat blue spark. Then duplicate the process with one of the plug leads. I use an old plug for this, and just lay it on the valve cover. Remember, it will only spark 1/6 as often as the coil wire does. If the timing is OK, and you have spark to the plugs, remove the fuel line from the front carb, place it in a "suitable container" and crank the engine. See how much fuel is delivered, and what it looks like. Should be clean and look like, well, gas. If you are not getting fuel, remove the filter closest to the pump, and try again. That should get you started. Let me know what the results are.
 
Hi There Tinster;

1st: Best Wishes for another 58yrs preferably driving your LBC as opposed to getting more frustrated by the day:

Hey; I know where there`s a "Really Nice" TR4A-IRS for Sale!

Perhaps Your Wife would give you One heck of a Nice B`day Present; What do You Think?

Best Wishes; Russ

This Buds for You; /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif
 
Dale, lets go for a long shot..... Did hot coolant/water hit the hot distributor cap when your radiator overflowed?

Undo the distributor cap and check for cracks or wetness.

I have had more than one distributor cap crack when hit by hot fluid. The crack (if there is one) will be hard to spot since it will most likely be a hairline crack.

Wetness, on or inside, a distributor cap (specially if the coolant/water is rusty) will cause all kinds of trouble (miss-firing,cross-firing,etc).

If the cap is cracked the only cure is replacement.

If the cap is wet/contaminated a good cleaning and drying will usually cure it. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hammer.gif
 
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