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New Clutch Master ?

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rjhorizon

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I just received the new kit for a 1500 Midget clutch replacement from Vic Brit. Part CRK-230. Its the new master, slave and tube between.

My question may be stupid, but how do you get the fill cap off the master?

There are two cam spots that the top snaps over when putting it on but I dont see how it comes back over the cam as it has a 90 degree edge on the backside? It cant be pushed down to clear the step.

Vic Brit said they need to do research. Am I stupid?
 
The clutch master on my 78 screws off. It sounds like you have a different clutch master cylinder than what is normally on the Midget.

Good luck

Regards,
Dominic Uliano
78 Midget
Clayton, NY
 
I'm not visualizing this, but I've been through a small army of master cylinders (clutch and brake) and I've never seen one that didn't have a screw off cap. Note that I've got a 1500, so my experience is particularly pertinent. I've ordered the replacement masters from both Moss and VB. I've never seen one like you describe.
 
I did not hear back from VB so I filed the back side of the stop and the cap comes off OK. There are no threads. The tabs on the top run on a flat then hit the stops that I filed. The tabs can now be popped over the stops. The fluid container is plastic and the body metal, on the master.

Having said that, I can not get the system to pump up! New master, slave and connecting tubing. I have tried to bleed the conventional way with pump, hold, bleed, etc. I have also used a pressure pump to force fluid into the system from the slave back up. No good! Cant get a back pressure on the peddle.

I took the masster and slave apart to insure they had the proper rubber seals and orientation. Reassembled and tried to bleed again as noted. No good.

Seems even with some small amount of air in the line I should be able to get some back pressure. When I open the bleed screw after pumping, the fluid floes out slowly, no spurt indicating pressure build up.

Can I assume the master pump is a reject? Maybe I am the reject? What am I missing?
 
Did you bench bleed the master? if you havent then in my meager experience you will get nowhere fast. to bench bleed, place the master gently in a vice or other stable workholding device. run a hose from the output of the master to the resovoir of the master. fill master with fluid and using a suitable pushrod, actuate the cylinder until there are no more bubbles in the hose. reinstall and try bleeding the system. i would suggest some sort of vacuum bleeder. or feed from the bottom like you have tried, filling the pipe then tightening the connection at the master. then try bleeding normally

Good Luck
mark
 
I will try bench bleeding the master and filling the slave and tubing from the bottom. Never had to do this before but I am up for anyting at this point. I will also search old posts for other interesting thoughts.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
I bought one of those for my 67 Midget. Push down and turn left. It will pull off. To bleed... I filled the master cylinder with fluid, opened the valve at the clutch cylinder, used the heal of my hand to pop against the open top of the master cylinder... that pushed the fluid right thru. I tightened the slave cylinder and Viola'... perfect clutch for 18 months now. Guess I'm just lucky.
 
Hoho Gunner, good trick.
 
The 1500 is a notorious bear to bleed because the tube to the slave runs above the top of the master resevoir. I have tried several techniques, and the only one that works for me is to jack up the driver's side of the car until the top of the master resevoir is above the tube. Remove the pedal box plate and use a pry bar to depress the master plunger. Loosen the hose fitting at the master to bleed. You should be able to see the big air bubble in the translucent tube. Bleed until it's gone.
 
Silent Unicorn, the bench bleed did the trick. Thanks for the tip.I now have a good clutch. Thats the good news. The bad news is it wont go into gear with the engine on. If the engine is off it goes into all gears but none when the engine is running.

Is my clutch shot? I think I am getting enough slave travel as everthing is new up to the pushrod. The car has been getting progressively harder to shift before I changed out the hydraulics. Any thoughts are appreciated.
 
It almost sounds like the pilot bearing is grabbing- but I have never heard of this happening before. May be time to pull the engine to see. ( or maybe the clutch disk is disintegrating?)
Bill
 
rjhorizon,
Glad to have been of help.

I would suggest that you check the pin on the end of the push rod. if it is worn you will loose some travel. If it has been getting prgressivly harder to shift, i would start thinking about a new clutch. and that means pulling the motor and tranny. and while you in there renew the pivot pins on the arm itself. How many miles do you have on the car?


mark
 
does it grind when u try to shift or just not go at all?
im betting ur not done bleeding the clutch yet....
if it isnt right itll grind every time till u get
proper clutch pedal.....zzimmmy
 
Zimmy, no grinding at all if 4 forward gears. Does grind trying to go into reverse.

S Unicorn, I am at around 94,000 miles. If the prior owner didnt do anything, I guess its about time for a clutch. Everthing from the master including the peddle clevis pin down to and including the slave is new. I have a new push rod but cant see how to replace it without pulling the trans.

Looks like the Midget is going into surgery. No fall drives this year. My favorite time to drive the LBC. Sunny cool days with fall color on back New England roads. Curses...Doesnt look like there is any magic cure this time.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I appreciate it. I will probably wheel it into the barn and start coordinating in my mind the details of surgery.
 
New clutch, now just a min here. Lets think about this.

A bad clutch will not engage properly.

Your prob sounds like it does not disengage properly.

So may I suggest that you still may have some bleading to do? When the clutch is depressed does the rod comming from the slave cylinder move out then return when released? I don't know how much that should be on your car but would guess a quarter of an inch or better in any case.

Someone with one of these step up and tell us how far the slave rod moves or should move.

I just can't see the problem being internal to the clutch or throwout bearing and that is all that is in there.

Boy someone jump in here before he pulls the engine.
 
Yes by all means, make sure it is well bled. Is the reason you replaced the hydraulics because it has been getting harder to shift?


mark
 
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