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General Tech New Clutch Installation--TR4A

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KVH

KVH

Obi Wan
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My clutch came with no instructions, typical in the Internet age. But it all seems so simple and basic. New throw out bearing, centering tool, and torque the clutch housing sequentially around the perimeter. Are there any helpful pointers or warnings here?

The aligned clutch drive plate is marked for direction, and it is held in place initially by the force of the pressure plate, and thereafter both by the pressure plate and by the splined transmission spigot shaft. Not seeing any other magical issue.

My bearing sleeve looks fine, but not sure what I'd look for other than obvious distortion or wear.

Thanks for any help.

PS My first TR back in the early 70s had a surprise for me when I removed the transmission. Two big holes in the bell housing. When I called the PO, a kid like me back then, he said it was like that when he bought it, and the clutch must have exploded inside at some point. What on earth was he talking about? I've always wondered. Maybe someone will help solve the mystery.
 
First, make sure the pilot bearing is in the rear of the crank! I've had to pull the whole clutch more than once because we couldn't remember if it was in there or not.

The alignment tool allows the disc to sag. This will make installing the transmission difficult later. I recommend installing the disc with alignment tool, then start the clutch with the mounting bolts loose. Before locking the disc in place with the clutch bolts, lift the alignment tool fully up, noting the top of it's movement, and then back down by gravity, noting the lowest point of it's movement. Then, lift the tool about 1/2 the distance measured, and snug the clutch bolts to lock the disc at this mid point. That will be truly centered.

Be sure to tighten the clutch bolts sequentially about 1/2 turn at a time to prevent warping it.
 
Thanks. Pilot in, but I ought to Re torque, because I didn’t look for slack/drop. Good point. I assume loosening and re-torque is fine on #5 grade bolts?

About putting engine back in, do you think I’m fine with rear tires on the ground and front on jacks (wheels off) up 6 additional inches?
 
Those clearances are just so tight. Last time I recall the oil pan sliding by the frame by 1/8 inch, and stressing the accelerator shaft to the limit, the manipulating a jack to lift the back of the transmission. It was quite an experience.
 
CJD said:
The alignment tool allows the disc to sag. This will make installing the transmission difficult later. I recommend installing the disc with alignment tool, then start the clutch with the mounting bolts loose.
Click to expand...

As an alternative for perfect alignment, I have a spare input shaft I use in lieu of the undersized plastic version.

Let me know if you want to borrow it.
 
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