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New Center Rear Panel or Repair?

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60Bugeye

60Bugeye

Jedi Hopeful
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Hey folks,

I am finally getting around to stripping the bugeye to get a real sense of the amount of metal repairs will be necessary. One area of concern is the right rear center section where the car was hit at some point it its life. I've attached some photos of the damage uncovered after removing the bondo. There is a weld plus a lot of wrinkles (especially near the gas tank neck hole).

I think I have a couple of options, but I wanted to get some opinions from the experts here on which route is better long term.

First the photos:

IMAG1135.jpg


wrinkle.jpg


Option 1. Try to straighten it out better than the previous attempt; the metal is solid, but really wrinkled. Then reapply bondo.

Option 2. Spend $1500+ on a replacement panel (entire center section), cut the old one out and weld in a new one.

Thoughts? One option better than the other? Something else?

Cheers!
 
If the rest of the panel is straight and sound, then just repair that metal and move on.
 
I would look at a patch panel to replace the damaged area......no need to replace the entire center section.

At this point do the repair properly (without bondo).....a good body shop can weld in a new panel in such a way that you'll never know it was ever damaged or repaired.
 
It appears to be. I haven't gotten to the other side, and the lower half (near boot floor) may end up needing replaced or repaired.

Either option seems challenging, but replacing the entire panel almost seems daunting, like I would regret tearing it off.
 
Its a real bear to keep that trunk area from oil canning when you go to try to straighten it. Some skill with shrinking stretched sheet metal would be required
but that would be easier than replaceing the whole section.

Previous owner of my BE cut a hole under the licence plate so that he could reach inside to work the metal. Getting behind the panel with hammers and dollies is impossible unless you have access thru a hole of some kind. Either that or a willing helper inside the boot with enough patience to move the dolly around according to your directions. [Been there and it doesn't do much for marital bliss!!]

The hole under the licence I plugged with two pieces of sheet metal bolted together. One inside and one out with RTV to seal out the element's. Its completely hidden by the licence plate and did'nt cause any distortion as welding would have.

Kurt.
 
Yeah. Given the lack of access to this area for hammering, that may be the least expensive/amount of work. I don't have the confidence to cut that out yet, so it will probably have to wait until I've finished stripping the rest of the car and have completed a few interior panel welds.

Or I could save this section for a body shop.
 
You found yourself a tough repair.

You could use a torch with hammer and dolly. Of course access would best be done with the panel cut out. But welding it back in will shrink and distort the whole back end.

Don't trust a body shop unless they are specialists in antique cars. They usually just fill with bondo.

A used part might be best and graft it in. Try butt welding for the perfect repair.



Of course there's always this for ÂŁ219 plus shipping
https://www.petermayengineering.co.uk/specialistProducts.htm#4.10
 
60Bugeye said:
Yeah. Given the lack of access to this area for hammering, that may be the least expensive/amount of work. I don't have the confidence to cut that out yet, so it will probably have to wait until I've finished stripping the rest of the car and have completed a few interior panel welds.

Or I could save this section for a body shop.
Click to expand...

The tool you need to do this job is called a Porta Power (Google the term, you'll find a lot of examples.) All you need is someone with some old school metal working skills. I have seen much, much worse damage brought back to new condition. However, that depends on how good the person is. You don't even need it perfect, just close enough to finish with a light coat or Metalglaze

I have a guy here that cured all the oil can issues I had in the footwells. It doesn't get much worse than that.
 
I was considering cutting out what is there and straightening it (the part near the gas tank hole where the wrinkle is.
 
Hadn't considered the warp effect. Hmmm...

So far the nearest body shop that deals with old British cars is in Seattle, which would involve me trailering the body via ferry to the city. I may eventually go that route, but it will be costly.

Edit: So the fiberglass (?) rear section is an alternative, but I would rather it be all steel. :smile:
 
Hmm...having trouble finding any info on how to use that tool, but it might be a really good option!

Perfection isn't my goal. I just want the metal to be close so a light coat of filler will be all that is necessary to make it right.

Does your body guy want to move to Bainbridge Island so I have a local resource? :smile:
 
The area that you need to repair is concaved 360 degrees so it will be very difficult to manage the metal since it is probably stretched from previous work or will be by the time you finish pounding etc..
I feel the best option is to find a rusted out tub someone will never rebuild, cut an oversize patch and butt weld with a mig very slowly. It will need bondo no matter which way you repair, fiberglass would not be an option for me
 
Hi Chris,
If I was doing that repair, I'd cut the affected area out and fabricate a repair piece. the best way to form a repair piece for that area would be with an english wheel. Then butt weld it in with a Mig welder (since that's all I use). A tig welder would be better. I fabricated and installed rear quarter panel repairs in this fashion for my Bugeye restoration. Contact Andrew Bradley at bradleyrestoration.com in Mount Vernon and see what He says. He'll know what your best option is.
regards
Mark
 
I agree that welding in a patch panel would be best, but finding one might prove difficult. Fabricating one yourself might end up closer than the metal that is there. Might have to do it in two or three sections. TIG welds a much easier to work than MIG. If you MIG it then it better be as you want it because MIG welds are very hard to hammer and move.
 
Trevor Jessie said:
I agree that welding in a patch panel would be best, but finding one might prove difficult. Fabricating one yourself might end up closer than the metal that is there. Might have to do it in two or three sections. TIG welds a much easier to work than MIG. If you MIG it then it better be as you want it because MIG welds are very hard to hammer and move.
Click to expand...

I agree! I'd like to make a TIG welder one of my next big tool purchases :yesnod:. However I have had alot of success MIG welding patches then shrinking the welded area with a shrinking disk.
 
Nice. :smile:
 
Cool. Thanks for the contact info.
 
I HAVE A 58 BUGEYE BODY IN BAD SHAPE "RUST" YOU COULD CUT OUT THE AREA YOU NEED AND WELD IT.

CALL ME I LIVE IN RENTON
CELL 214-924-3133
 
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