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new brakes!

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jussie

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so I ordered my new brakes tonight... 4runner calipers, and cressida rotors. I already got my morgan rear wheel cyls, and my braided stainless lines. also, my rollbar came today. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

now I am just waiting on my swaybars, my rear coilovers, my nylatron trailing arm bushings, and my competition lowering springs. and one other front shock. but I'm not too impressed with the koni's... they arent gas charged and I find that disconcerting, and I dont see any adjustment for them.. theres no stops or anything..
 
jussie,
The adjustment on the Koni is a little funny, you have to get it all the way down and in a slot, then turn and you should feel a click, on mine there were 5, but the new ones may have more. The rubber in the top part has to be taken out to get it on the bottom. They are great once you get it set up.
Wayne
 
I see. what settings do you use? I'm gonna be drifting this car. how stiff is 5?

*edit* does the white plastic washer need to come off?
 
Drifting? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif Jussie,this is the triumph forum,are sure you didn't mistype and meant to be on a Toyota forum??? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
everyone drifts toyotas and nissans. I wanna be different. I'm sure alot of enthusiasts hate what I'm going to do with this car, but atleast its not rotting in some field... its also gonna look original from the outside! well, other then the wheels.
 
jussie, with what you are doing with all the other goodies it just hard to say, at first it will be a hit and miss type of thing. I use 3 and that's fine for street and a little fun on back roads.
As info you have the wrong car for drafting, a TR4 or 4A with a solid axle will brake loose must easier. When I autocrossed one on 165SR15 tyres it would do it so quick It was impossible to catch, 185's helped.

Check the Koni web site on the plastic bit.

Wayne
 
thats why I got an adj rear bar, and adj shocks. I'm setting the rear up real loose. He should break loose no problems. its also all in technique. clutch kicks for the win!
 
Look forward to some pictures or video would be better.

Wayne
 
oh there will be plenty of both. my first event is on march 16th. I need to get the car done quick tho! I'm waiting on my 240sx driveline.. waiting for my friend to swap his stuff.
 
Okay, so which Cressida rotors are you using?

Also, if you're gonna be drifting, probably a good idea to upgrade your rear hubs to Corvairs, or else stock up on rear bearings and learn how to replace 'em.

And I'd also recommend upgrading your ujoints.
 
RonMacPherson said:
Also, if you're gonna be drifting, probably a good idea to upgrade your rear hubs to Corvairs, or else stock up on rear bearings and learn how to replace 'em.
Click to expand...
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif Except if you don't improve the hubs, you should also stock up on stub axles. ISTR Kas Kastner wrote that he replaced them every 4 races.

Of course there are other conversions besides the Corvair.
 
I got some cheapo 87 cressida sedan rotors to try out first. although I'm gonna look into getting some similarly sized aftermarket rotors.... I bought the uprated front axle kit. but I dont even know where to start with the rear axle stuff. I'm gonna be using nissan r200 diff.
 
For the rear end, go with CV joints of ocala. Talk to Kevin.
https://www.cvaxles.com
He makes them to fit the R200 diff as well and will take all that you can throw at them. I have a pair as do a few others on this forum. I think only one of us is running the R200 diff. Kevin makes them for goodparts as well and when I bought mine they were $1500 for the pair, so better pricing than through goodparts. Mine were also a one off as far as the diff was concerned.

https://goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=20

Good luck
 
1500? thats more then the rest of the driveline cost me... this car is getting ridiculously expensive real quick.
 
It all depends on what you are doing to the car and how much HP you are throwing at it as well. Since you said you are drifting you are putting some pretty big loads on the car, maybe not as much as racing because your tires are sliding as opposed to sticking. But with the 240SX engine? you will have enough to be gambling a little. Below is a picture of what can happen when you race a STOCK TR6, so just be careful or willing to accept the possible failure and the damage/cost that occurs.

bugger2.jpg

Mvc-646f.jpg


FWIW, I feel your pain with the costs, but you have to pay to play. Below is my little drive train swap
DSCN2358.jpg

DSCN2210.jpg
 
Supra 4.1 limited slip, custom adapter mounts, no way I was going to trust that much power to the stock rear end/axles. If I didn't already have the Supra diff I would probably go with a 300Z turbo rear end, because I believe the goodparts adapters will work on that as well.
 
PM me your email addy if you'd like a copy of Chuck's article describing the conversion pictured above. He didn't give a total price, but it looks to be less than 1/2 that amount. Not as fancy as the CV joint setup, but appears to adequately address the bearing problem and most importantly, eliminate the weak spot where the stock axles snap.
 
300z uses an r200. so does the skyline, and the 240sx. r200 is the hot diff to buy right now, its so well supported.

the KA is gonna be blown.. I didnt wanna deal with turbos. but good lord.. twin turbo supra motor.. you Sir are incredible.


*edit* are you gonna bring that beast to pikes peak this year? I'll be there, car should be done /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
i believe that the cressida rotors need to be put on a lathe and the center opened up a bit, not positive though so any feedback when you get them would be good. i dont know how familiar you are with tr6's but this as a choice of drift car isnt great because the rear end is complex and somewhat fragile for cars of the era. make sure those diff mounts are reinforced of you may be in for a nasty suprise.
Randy
 
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