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New Brakes this weekend

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CaptRoy

Jedi Hopeful
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I have all the parts ready to go. I'm going to put the Toyota's on the front and the Aflin drum's with new shoes on the rear this weekend. I found a set of TR6 caliper brackets and I think I have everything else. I'm also putting on a sway bar. The instructions for the sway bar says to have the car at it's normal ride height to install... I'm not sure I can do that and still get under the car.. Maybe I could set the car wheels on some wood blocks to get room.. I'm trying to get ready for the 2007 Vintage Triumph Register South Central Region Trials being held here in Houston on the 26th.

I'll take lots of pictures of the install..
 
When you've got the posterior elevated, replacing the brake components you should be able to install almost all of the sway bar stuff, just don't do the final linkage to cross rod hookup. Install the brackets, crossrod, linkpins, bushings, etc. Then block the rear wheels or drop the rear to hookup the linkpins.
 
Front sway bar right, Roy? Make sure if you have lifted the car, that you roll it or dirve it to settle it back down to ride height, before installing the bar. You could drive along a couple of thickness of 2x6 to raise it up for the install.

Are you installing Addco or original bar?
 
Peter,

I'm putting on a Addco bar on the front... Thanks for the input... I'll do the brakes, add some of the brackets and then drive it before I do the final assembly...I'll have to use some boards so I can get under it to work...


Thanks
 
I think the Addco kit mounts to the front bumper bracket (frame extension). You might want to look at cutting a short piece of angle to fit inside the bumper bracket to strengthen the mounting point. Then bolt the Addco bushing mount plate through the bumper bracket and through the angle reinforcement.

A completely different way to mount the front bushing plates is to use an angle that spans between the two bumper brackets. Bolt the angle to the same holes used by the standard installation (above.)

Then bolt the bushing mounts to the angle instead of the bumper brackets. By moving the bushing plates inboard, it allows more roll; outwards stiffens the effect of the bar. So it gives you some degree of tunability. And you can still "go back" by removing the angle and use the standard holes.

Have fun!

PK
 
CaptRoy said:
Maybe I could set the car wheels on some wood blocks to get room..

What about ramps in lieu of blocks of wood? Drive onto one set up front, jack up the rear, and place the second set under the rear wheels? Might be a little safer?
Click to expand...
 
I would crawl under and install the bolts for the links on the lower control arms and attach the bar, then mark the bumper brackets for the bushing brackets. Then ramps are OK. But I wouldn't upset the suspension by ramps and jacking before I made my marks. It's really not THAT critical but might as well do it right.

Of course, read the instruction picture first!
 
Erik - I have 4 planks of 2 by 8" about 3 feet long. At one end of each of these planks, I have nailed a shorter piece of 2 by 8" about 12" long on top. When I want my 1958 TR3A up on my jack stands, I fit these planks in front of each wheel and I drive the car up onto these planks as ramps. The car now has about 3" more clearance that I need to get my rolling garage jack under the car. Then I place my jack stands safely and I can remove any of the wheels.

If you don't have a rolling jack, use the original TR3A screw jack through the hole in the floor to lift one side of the car. Then place your jack stands safely under the frame on that side where it's solid so the car won't fall.

If you plan to change the brakes, you can't leave the car on ramps, because you will have to remove the wheel to get to the brakes.

Do one wheel at a time. Make sketches before you take it apart. Follow the manual.
 
Thanks Don. I like your suggestion and will keep it in mind for future reference. I was actually replying to Capt. Roy's original post with a possible solution to getting the car high enough to do the front sway bar while keeping the suspension from being unsprung.
Sorry for the confusion.
 
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