Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Offline
If you are going to do your own flaring for something as important as your brake lines you should get the best tools. Either Rigid or Eastwood make very good tools.
-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Share this page
OP
Deleted member 21878
Guest
Guest
Offline
i ended up not cutting the lines. i had to add a couple of bends to run the line a little differently than the old ones but it came out ok. not as pretty as i would have liked but they are fine. especially since i had to completely rebend the left side line.
both sides were app 5" longer. the tech at Moss seems to think they were changed at some point to route around the spring perches (his words not mine) does not make sense to me since the old lines did not run over the u-bolts anyway.
if i had not had the old ones to go by, i would probably have thought these are run the way they were always done so it is ok.
both sides were app 5" longer. the tech at Moss seems to think they were changed at some point to route around the spring perches (his words not mine) does not make sense to me since the old lines did not run over the u-bolts anyway.
if i had not had the old ones to go by, i would probably have thought these are run the way they were always done so it is ok.
Offline
Reporting back on the Eastwood tools mentioned above...
NFI.
Summary: The inexpensive, very well-made Eastwood tool takes the guesswork out of 3/16" double flares. It will also straighten the tube end enough to get a good perpendicular cut with a decent tube cutter.
The more expensive Ridgid 345 is more versatile in that you can also make bubble flares and the 1/4" supply lines from the tanks to the master cylinders.
IMO the deburring tool is a nice-to-have, but the lines can be deburred with a countersink on the inside and a file on the outside. The straightening pliers will help you make nicer-looking runs.
Photo essay with comments:
https://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/tube_flaring_tools
NFI.
Summary: The inexpensive, very well-made Eastwood tool takes the guesswork out of 3/16" double flares. It will also straighten the tube end enough to get a good perpendicular cut with a decent tube cutter.
The more expensive Ridgid 345 is more versatile in that you can also make bubble flares and the 1/4" supply lines from the tanks to the master cylinders.
IMO the deburring tool is a nice-to-have, but the lines can be deburred with a countersink on the inside and a file on the outside. The straightening pliers will help you make nicer-looking runs.
Photo essay with comments:
https://www.pbase.com/stevegerow/tube_flaring_tools