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New battery

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Nelson

Nelson

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I need to buy a new battery for my Mk 2 Sprite. The car has been off the road for many years. With its resurrection I am changing over to a negative ground setup. What do I need to know before buying a new battery? I'm not sure how battery specs now match up to the ones in my owner's manual. Do I need to make up new battery cables as well?
 
1. Is it 12 volt.

2. Will it fit in the appropiate space.

3 Is it appropiately priced.


Hay, this is important stuff.

Go for it.
 
Yeah, that's about it. The only other thing I can think of is terminal location--you want the terminals away from the firewall (so the hot one can't short accidentally) and the negative one--which will be the ground--on the left/driver side of the car.

Beyond that, just be sure it fits.
 
I swapped my MK1 Midget over to negative ground last winter, I kept the same battery. If I were shopping for one I'd consider one of those AGM (aborbtion glass mat) batteries, no maintenaince, plenty of cranking and they weigh so much less. Might be worth the extra $$? My battery in there now weighs 48lbs!! But it was newer so back in it went.
 
When I got a battery for The Little Car - I just got one that was the same size as the one in my Toyota PU (tried that one for a fit first).

The Little Car was also converted to negative ground (I mean negative earth), so the only thing I wish I had done was to get a battery with the terminals reversed. That way when the battery is in place the terminals are closer to the firewall. As it is now the terminals are on the engine side which puts them closer to the battery hold down. Not a big deal.... Unless the hold down slips back across the terminals...
cd
 
I normally use 24F series battery but never had the courage to put on the hold-down bracket since the terminals are so close to the bracket.
I have seen correct sized batteries where the terminals are about in the middle of the battery but haven't investigated them yet. It may allow for the bracket.
Bill
 
You could make the angle out of this (McMaster Carr of course):

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This product matches all of your selections.

Part Number: 8542K51
$9.65 Each
Material
Fiberglass
Fiberglass Material
Plain Fiberglass (FRP)
Backing
Plain Back
Finish
Smooth
Shape
90° Angles
Wall Thickness
1/8"
Wall Thickness Tolerance
±.050"
Length
5'
Length Tolerance
±.250"
Leg Length
1" x 1"
Leg Length Tolerance
±.094"
Opaque
Green
Operating Temperature Range
-50° to +140° F
Performance Characteristic
High Tensile Strength, High Impact Strength, Weather Resistant, Wash-Down Applications
Tensile Strength
30,000 psi lengthwise, 7000 psi crosswise
Impact Strength
25 ft.-lbs./in. lengthwise; 4 ft.-lbs./in. crosswise
Tolerance
Standard
Hardness
Barcol 45
Specifications Met
Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Compliant
 
Orrrr, you can use Spritenuts method and make one from wood.
 
I picked up a marine battery box and am using it in Bugsy. No more dripping acid worries and more. My battery shelf was rusted as well, bolted a piece of 1/8" aluminum plate on top, has worked great for the last 8-9 years. Now a battery box further distributes the load and protects the battery shelf. A cheap solution and protection in this rust prone area.
 
I decided my boat needed a new battery so Little Blue got the old marine battery, 12v from Walmart. Fits perfect and the terminals are in the right spot.

Mark
 
Hi guys and gals,
So along with the battery, I need to find some cables. I would like the original cup type with the screw hole in the top. I have reconfigured the polarity to negative ground. Do you know of any one who has them? In addition, I believe the correct way to mount the battery is with the posts toward the windshield side. Does that work if I end up using the newer clamp type battery cables?
Thanks in advance,
Scott in CA
 
thanks Jack, they seem to have it all!
Now I just have to learn how to solder big wires!
Scott in CA
 
The posts on the Walmart Marine battery are toward the windhield, while they are not original I bought a nice red and black cable fro NAPA.

Mark
 
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