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Never had new brake drums before
- Thread starter jlaird
- Start date
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fmichaels
Jedi Knight
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a while ago, someone told me to consider using "dycum" marking paint on the shoes to identify where they make contact with the drum. then remove the shoes and remove enough material to ensure a full area surface contact with the pad to drum. don't know if anyone does that. i guess the drums are not always true and therefore after shoe replacement, you would only have so much pad making contact ... thoughts?
fordtrucks4ever
Jedi Trainee
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I seriously doubt theose shoes are ground after linings are installed. You can just knock the highs off(bevel) which will probably be at outer edges of linings to get clearance for hsoes a little better. Or wait till you test drive and find out how spongy the pedal is when traveling at high speed thru neighbors fence.
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[ QUOTE ]
I seriously doubt theose shoes are ground after linings are installed. You can just knock the highs off (bevel) which will probably be at outer edges of linings to get clearance for shoes a little better. Or wait till you test drive and find out how spongy the pedal is when traveling at high speed thru neighbors fence.
[/ QUOTE ]
Any good brake shop can (arc) - grind the lining contour exactly to the drum diameter to give full shoe to drum contact. Or you can drive miles with less than optimum brakes & hope the shoes will eventually wear to fit the drums. Brake shops can't afford the liability of sending a customer out with less than good brakes, so they do the former. All you need to do is take the shoes & drums to the shop. It won't cost much.
D
I seriously doubt theose shoes are ground after linings are installed. You can just knock the highs off (bevel) which will probably be at outer edges of linings to get clearance for shoes a little better. Or wait till you test drive and find out how spongy the pedal is when traveling at high speed thru neighbors fence.
[/ QUOTE ]
Any good brake shop can (arc) - grind the lining contour exactly to the drum diameter to give full shoe to drum contact. Or you can drive miles with less than optimum brakes & hope the shoes will eventually wear to fit the drums. Brake shops can't afford the liability of sending a customer out with less than good brakes, so they do the former. All you need to do is take the shoes & drums to the shop. It won't cost much.
D
Hap Waldrop
Yoda
Offline
Just curious, are you running front drums Jack???
""""""Boy new drums with new shoes makes for a tight fit. I can just turn em by hand, the drums."""""""
There should be enough clearance shoes to drum to allow for shoe expansion when you use the brakes. make sure the adjusters allow complete retraction. the fix is to arc the shoes or turn the drums....and Plan A is certainly better.
"""""Bet they break in fast. """"
The will NOT break in unless you severely abuse the brakes and smoke them or drive a lot of miles with the brake applied...
<(.
You might remove the drums and mark their positions... remove the shoes and mark their positions also.
Lay the shoes inside the drums in their "installed" positions and use a feler guage to see if the middle to the edges of the shoes are too fat (not in the correct arc of the drums).
Your problem will either be that....OR the lining is not the right thickness for the drum diameter (too thick).
The days of arcing shoes before installing is long gone because of airborne contaminants. You MAY be able to find a "brake shop" that still has an arcing stand. If so they will want all four corners and drums/shoes marked to their positions. You should also tell them that the brakes are not self energizing If you are using the original early drum setup so they can grind the correct cam on the shoes.
Hacking /whacking /home grinding will not be the answer.
There should be enough clearance shoes to drum to allow for shoe expansion when you use the brakes. make sure the adjusters allow complete retraction. the fix is to arc the shoes or turn the drums....and Plan A is certainly better.
"""""Bet they break in fast. """"
The will NOT break in unless you severely abuse the brakes and smoke them or drive a lot of miles with the brake applied...
<(.You might remove the drums and mark their positions... remove the shoes and mark their positions also.
Lay the shoes inside the drums in their "installed" positions and use a feler guage to see if the middle to the edges of the shoes are too fat (not in the correct arc of the drums).
Your problem will either be that....OR the lining is not the right thickness for the drum diameter (too thick).
The days of arcing shoes before installing is long gone because of airborne contaminants. You MAY be able to find a "brake shop" that still has an arcing stand. If so they will want all four corners and drums/shoes marked to their positions. You should also tell them that the brakes are not self energizing If you are using the original early drum setup so they can grind the correct cam on the shoes.
Hacking /whacking /home grinding will not be the answer.
