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Needs choke when warm

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bigjones

bigjones

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Well here is something I have not experienced before.

It doesn't want to start when warm unless I give it a bit of choke.

If this sounds familar - please give me a hint.

Meantimes I'm planning on checking valve clearances (have not done that in a while) and looking at the plugs.

Cheers!

TR3A - TS58324
 
Could be several things, but I would lean towards an ignition problem. Hard starting was the first thing I noticed when my coil went bad at TRfest last year. Coils rarely fail (first one I've ever had die like that); so my point is just that it wouldn't hurt to do an ignition tuneup if it hasn't had one recently.
 
Thanks Randall,
I was heading off in the wrong direction (carbs)!
Will report back if I find anything of interest.
Cheers!
 
Among the possibilities if it isn't the coil -

Check for a sticking dashpot piston that's unable to lift properly. They get grit build up inside the chamber which upsets the fine tolerance. The original aircleaners don't stop much. Ramflo aircleaners work much better.

Check the dashpot oil. It needs to be at the correct level so seepage lubes the sliding tube, or it dries out over time.

Check that your spark plug gaps haven't become too wide, and that the points gap hasn't closed up too far - either can sneak up and cause havoc.

Condensors can play up when hot. The usual test is renewal.

Viv.
 
Viv,

Many thanks for the ideas.

If the car sits any length of time, the dashpots do need topping up. I usually check them before a trip - maybe I forgot last time. But why would the dashpot oil (or lack of it) affect starting up the engine. I thought it was to delay the carb piston travel when you want quick acceleration and give it the hoof.

I assume the test for a coil is "replace with a known good one", right?

Cheers!
 
Hi Big, Just a thought, Did you add a few gallons of high test gas and some water treatment to the tank. My car has sat around a lot this summer because of the heat and I have treated the Roaster each time with no problems, and the TR6 was a little funny last time out, so it got fixed up also. Problem solved.

Wayne
 
Wayne,

Thanks for the suggestion.

I always use premium gas - I thought it lessened the incidence of dieseling (run-on) but I'm actually reconsidering that.

Is that water treatment stuff safe for our carburettors? I'm thinking of the o-rings, glands and such.

Cheers!

(Very nice Roadster, by the way!!!)
 
Sorry I didn't get back with you last night. So far no trouble. I can't say I have never had a seal leak, but it has been many years and they were suppose to leak over that period of time. I add some octane booster to both cars and will the '37 when it's finished. Plugs are brown/gray. I service a TR4A that needed rebuilding 10 years ago, but with the add on in the tank and new plugs every year, it's still a good weekender. He will let go of the money one day.

Wayne
 
bigjones, the reason I mentioned the dashpot oil level is that I've seen dashpot shafts dry out and stick, after a car had sat for a winter. It always needed choke. I have to say it was a pretty neglected 3A until the owner called for help.

Yes a coil can start to play up when hot, so easiest test is to substitute for a known good coil, or a new one.

Viv.
 
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