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TR2/3/3A Need help with TR3A top install

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PeterK

PeterK

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??Does anyone have a set of instructions on how to install a new soft top? I ordered a new top in April and it just came in from England.

It's an English Everex 3-window with a center zip-out window. It came with new lift-the-dot and new Tenax fasteners but no instructions.

??On the front lip there is a round furflex tube sewn across the front on the inside of the top. I think that I just punch holes in the vinyl and attach the Tenax snap so that the FURFLEX sits behind and against the windscreen frame and the front lip goes over the windscreen frame and clips to the Tenax pegs.

??Do I install the front then do the back. Or maybe criss cross from front to back and work around to the sides.
 
Peter,
Correct the furflex sits as you state.
I measured my windscreen to find dead center and then worked from the center outward after measuring the top itself. Once you have punched the hole you are committed but it's not very difficult.
Once that first fastener is in place I'd throw the top on, pull it tight in the direction of work and mark the spot, remove it and place the next fastener.
With the front of the top secured drape it over the frame and align it, check the fit, and work from center rear outward again.
I've the same type of top with the zip window and that's really a nice feature. FYI I put a snap on the top of each corner of the window (can't see it when zipped up as it's under the flap) and a fastener on the bckboard in my 3 (no back seat) so the window doesn't flap around in the wind at speed, works nicely.
 
Thanks for the pictures. I wondered about the window in the wind - the extra snap is a great idea.

Q. So, starting from the front center, you worked outward to each side of the front, completed the front and then started on the rear? I worry about keeping it parallel from front to rear.

Q. I planned to align the top with the frame and not attach the straps to the top bows until every thing cycled in the heat/cold a few times. Good idea?

Q. Which vinyl did you purchase? Mine is Everflex has less grain and a light grey interior. I noticed that your is black inside.

I paid $475 + shipping ... W-O-W or should I say O-U-C-H !!!
 
Peter,
Yup, I started at the front in that fashion and it worked well. I'd lay the top, with the latest fastener in place, and snap those then mark the new ones position checking that overall alignment was good.
Once started you'll find it pretty much works out easily.

If you are replacing your top bow straps check this site out https://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/sticks.htm

Mine is a Robbins top, very nice but yours is of higher quality. From a normal vendor I think $325 or so, you just got hit by the exchange rate.

If you've never put the top on/up the frame is in the fully up position, the front tenax are fastened and then you work around the back.
 
PeterK said:
Q. I planned to align the top with the frame and not attach the straps to the top bows until every thing cycled in the heat/cold a few times. Good idea?
Click to expand...

I think so. Here are the instructions that came with my Amco top years ago:

top-webbing.GIF


You'll note that those measurements differ from those TeriAnn presents. As she points out, there are variables in both the body and the tops that affect this so waiting until the top is up and locating based on its seams may be the best course.

Some (me) never attach the stick above the rear window, but pull it forward when erecting the top to give some slack, then push it into position when everything else is buttoned up for a taut fit.

Alternately some undo the 'knees' on the sticks to give that slack then push them back to tighten it up (standard practice on a TR4 but also works on a TR3).
 
prb51 said:
Mine is a Robbins top, very nice but yours is of higher quality. From a normal vendor I think $325 or so, you just got hit by the exchange rate.
Click to expand...

When I placed the order in April from lbcarco, the price was around $340, but Jeff emailed to say the price would be higher because of the failing dollar. So you're right, the exchange rate bit me. It's still high so, it is what it is.

Current price is actually $5 less than what I just paid.
It's a real nice top that should last.

The Amco top I'm replacing has perfectly clear windows, no cracking or yellowing. But it also has a couple of small splits and old repairs and I hope to get something back from it on ebay to defer some of the costs.

I have TerriAnne's diagram but it was wrong, even with the old Amco top. So it pays to measure before your cut, then measure a few more times.

THANKS for the help!
 
Peter,
Mine worked out to be about what Terri Ann has but, as Geo says, there is a tad of dif between cars.
Glad I bought mine when I did.
I only use mine in the summer as a shade so the rear window is always down hence the extra snaps.
Good luck with it.
 
Geo Hahn said:
Some (me) never attach the stick above the rear window, but pull it forward when erecting the top to give some slack, then push it into position when everything else is buttoned up for a taut fit.

Alternately some undo the 'knees' on the sticks to give that slack then push them back to tighten it up (standard practice on a TR4 but also works on a TR3).
Click to expand...
FWIW, I've tried both techniques, and I like the first one better. The second one can be nearly impossible, if your top is a snug fit (as it should be) and the weather is already quite cold when you try to install the top (eg after driving from SoCA to Breckenridge, CO with the top down).
 
After reading the info above, I pulled my Robbins top out of 24 year storage!
I know it has shrunk, but don't want to buy a new top!!!!
It is still very flexable and the windows are clear! :smile:
I bought the car in 1985 the top was new and pretty tight even back then.
I measured the frame and the web spacing was not even close.
So I removed the webbing and lowered the frame out of the way.
I snapped the front first then the back with
the frame not up. All the snaps went on pretty good.
Then I pushed the rear frame bar as far back as I could, followed by the next two.
Then took my heat gun and warmed the top to remove the wrinkles and expand the vinyl.
This allowed me to push the bars back closer to the proper position.
It looks pretty good, not in the right spot but close.
Will leave it overnight and do a little more streching tomorrow.
My plan is to get the top tight and close to position, and see where the frame spacing ends up.
Then I will install the new webbing to keep the frame in the position that will work with my old/shrunk top.
Who cares where the spacing is!
Beats buying a new top!
Lyle
 
prb51; I noticed that you referred to Teriann Wakemans page, she's has had great info on her web site for years. Do you know if she visits BCF or participates on the board. Good luck Peter, looks like the info is pretty good!
 
Russ Austin said:
Do you know if she visits BCF or participates on the board.
Click to expand...
I don't believe so. She used to be active on the Team.Net mail lists; but much less so for the past several years. She also sold a moderate amount of accumulated Triumph treasures awhile back; which I surmise shows that her interests have drifted in other directions.
 
I don't know if this represents a change, or not, but if you drill down into her site, you will find that she is also <span style="font-style: italic">seriously</span> into old Land Rovers.
 
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