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Need help with clutch

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You checked compression and did a leakdown test, right.
If that's ok and the engine turns over, and the valve timing isn't way off then there is no reason it won't run.
After that I'd be checking the electrics - spark, coil, distributor and all.
If they all check out then I'd be moving on to the fuel system - make sure you have fuel at the carbs, then check that they are in good condition. After that it ought to just be a case of tuning it.

YMMV - you could change the order, but with Joe's wiring involved, I'd be looking to the electrical system as the source of your problem...
 
Just read all of the above and didn't realize Dale you'd done the rear end. I have to agree with the threads, if you did the rear end, you can certainly do the clutch. There are certainly a few more steps involved, but it's pretty straight forward. The only real physical part is humping the tranny out, and worse, putting it back in and lining it up once again with the splined shaft. Good luck.
 
Dale, with the numbers that you have listed before from compression test, oil pressure after warm up etc... you have no reason to believe that the engine isn't healthy. In fact those numbers indicated a pretty healthy engine. Now is just a matter of getting the timing right and the electrics sorted so you can tune the carbs.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

The distributor angle problems appear to be nothing more than the distributor driveshaft spindle assembly being installed in a way other than described by the Bentley Manual. Other than establishing your #1 piston position to the distributor, its not that big of a deal.

The 'whine' you hear when depressing the clutch is most likely your throwout bearing. And since you've established that the stickiness is not linkage related but clutch disc related a replacement could be immediate. However, it still could be sticking from contamination. Continued driving might free it up some.

Also, about the clunking that you hear. A TR6 differential is not a quiet differential and the do tend to clunk even when completely in spec. Especially when going from forward to reverse. Just another thing to think about.
 
Alana:

Every single electrical component, including wires
and bulbs, in the car has been replaced with new.
(except the starter motor). Jeff Schlemmer distributor
and electronic ignition. Dan Master Power Block wire
harness. I have 100% confidence in the electronics.
Timing dead-on correct by three different methods.

Jeff Palya twin carbs and manifold- 100% confidence level.

The engine and drive trane? Unknown- zero confidence level.

160 # cyl pressure
75# oil pressure
182 degrees running temp
900 rpm idle

That's about all I know of the engine.
Even less about the transmission.

thanks,

d
 
[ QUOTE ]
160 # cyl pressure
75# oil pressure
182 degrees running temp
900 rpm idle


[/ QUOTE ]

Again, those indicate a healthy engine. I understand your hesitation based on the rest of the DPO screw ups but you won't get rid of that bad feeling until you have rebuilt everything on the car.

The numbers look good. If it's still starting and running well, keep driving it and see if the clutch gets less sticky. Try to enjoy it some.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Put some seats in that bad boy, get Wendy and the digi-cam and head to the beach! It's time to chill, or be warm in your case. I'm chillin' up here.
 
Tinster, those are great #s. I'd be happy with them on a new engine, let alone one of uncertain origin. I wish mine idled at 900, thats for sure...
 
Oh - and as to the clunking, add the ujs on the rear halfshafts to the list of possibles.
 
Guys, I am going to have to disagree with you all on the statements that changing the clutch is relatively easy. I have pulled my transmission 4 times and it gets harder each time. Why? Age and strength factor. Pushing a 90-120 piece of unwieldy dead weight up at several obtuse angles takes a heck-of-a lot of effort and strength. I have actually done this single-handed twice. Never again. It really takes two people, the dumb one on the bottom.

Tinster, think twice before you get up under that monster and start pushing. It has already heard you talking about your wanting to send it to the crusher. It might take on the persona of Christine and turn on you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
 
Dale,

Bill, is sorta right, lugging the tranny in and out of the car isn't easy.. When I say that it's doable task, I'm assuming that you either have the strength to lift the tranny out and/or you have a buddy to help.

I did the job myself. But I did have the help of a transmission jack... a tremendous help for moving the trannty around as well as removing a differential.

With my previous post I was just talking about the mechanical ability. Again, if you can rebuild the rear suspension on a TR you could easily do the clutch, as long as you can get the thing out of the car.
 
One of my uncles had a real Plymouth "Christine" in the 1950's. 1957 to be exact. Same colors, with the 2 X 4BBL's on the 383. That car flew like a bat outta h---. He always regretted trading it in.

It wasn't quirky like Christine, but Crypt and Chris are awful close.
 
I replaced my clutch fork pin with a 3/8" - 24, grade eight bolt. The original hole is just slightly under the required drill size for tapping if I remember correctly. I tapped my shaft and fork as a unit with the bolt extending through the shaft, slightly into the other side of the fork. It probably doesn't have to go that far. Took it apart for the first time in decades this past summer and nothing in the assembly appeared to be having a problem. To lock up the flywheel for removal or installation, a good tool for the purpose is the flat multipurpose pry bars that Stanley, Sears and numerous others market. You can fit the hooked end under the top studs from either direction into the ring gear teeth. If you want to avoid damaging the threads run some nuts on to them or use a wood shim.

Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107
 
My clutch acted the same as yours does Dale. It turned out to be very worn down clutch fork pins. The clutch itself was fine. Ended up changing it all out. If you get the TRF Magic clutch with the other needed components you will solve this problem since you will get a new clutch fork complete with pins.
This is also a good idea.
Taper pin modification
 
The sticky releasing clutch can be to do with the way the release bearing slides on its carrier. By the carrier I mean the cylindrical piece inside the bellhousing on the front of the transmission, that attaches with four bolts and holds the front seal. (I'm going from memory here...) If there is much wear I think the release bearing gets cocked on the carrier and sticks. In my case it got worse as it warmed up. At the very least, you or your mechanic should have a good hard look at that part. Lubricate lightly with lithium grease. I didn't see this covered in the above. Pete
 
There is a new grease packet, especially made for that in the Magic Kit package.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Guys, I am going to have to disagree with you all on the statements that changing the clutch is relatively easy. I have pulled my transmission 4 times and it gets harder each time. Why? Age and strength factor. Pushing a 90-120 piece of unwieldy dead weight up at several obtuse angles takes a heck-of-a lot of effort and strength. I have actually done this single-handed twice. Never again. It really takes two people, the dumb one on the bottom.

[/ QUOTE ]

I have never pushed or prodded a TR transmission out while laying on my back. Instead, to support it I have used a standard trolley jack with a chunk of wood. Once all the fastners are removed I pull straight back on the tranny to seperate it. Part of the prep for removing the tranny is the complete removal of passenger seat and runners. Then I put some cardboard down over the carpet or bare floor. After the trans is seperated, swing the tail shaft over torwards the passenger door. The swivel plate on the trolley jack still supports the tranny and lets it spin. Drag the tranny over to the cardboard and then drag the whole tranny torwards the door. Then the only lifting is from the door to wherever you are going to work on it. The cardboard protects the interior and allows easier sliding movement.

Putting it back in is a little tougher by yourself but as long as you work slowly and smartly it can be done. I don't enjoy pulling TR6 transmissions but it can be done by yourself with limited strength. Especially if time is not of importance. Take it slow, think it through.

If Dale has some local mechanics that are willing to do things right (and he's willing to pay the hourly fees) then Dale may be wise to begin 'educating' the local mechanics by doing some of the following.

1) Buy a seperate Bentley Manual so the shop has their own copy. Let them read up on the process befor they see the car. It will also familiarize them with the process.

2) Provide the mechanics with other technical resources (Moss Tech line, TRF Tech line, this site, 6-pack, etc...).

3) Get a good all weather car cover to keep in the boot when it goes to the mechanics. That way if they do have to push it outside to free up a lift they can cover it and protect it somewhat.

If the mechanics can be educated on the cars enough to do the work properly then there should be fewer problems.

I realize that I am making a hasty generalization about Dales mechanics but it is based on experience of seeing what even ASE certified mechanics can do to these cars when they treat them as 'cheap' cars. Hopefully Dale's choice of local mechanics are a breed apart.


/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Maybe a stupid question, maybe not.

It appears the engine in my 1969 TR6 is a TR250.
Will a TR6 clutch mate with a TR250 flywheel?

Or do I need to find a TR250 clutch assembly?

thanks,

d
 
The answer is yes. BUT now that you mention it, Triumph made two versions of a flywheel, one, the later unit starting in 1972 I think, is much heavier than the earlier one. The goofy part is that they're not interchangeable unless you change the crankshaft.

SO, scratch my idea about an aluminum flywheel since the only ones available are for the later crankshafts.

If you do decide to replace your flywheel with a new one, weigh it first, the later flywheels are in and around 29 lbs. while the earlier flywheel is around 20 lbs.
 
Hey Paul- I stopped by those machine shop guys
in Trinidad Tobago that you suggested might be
able to magnaflux and grind and polish my flywheel.

I brought a photocopy of a TR6 flywheel from Moss
for them to look at. Nice guys they were/ Even
offered me a cold beer as we negotiated price.

They admitted they were not quite up to speed on
magnafluxing but they would gladly grind and polish
my flywheel for $7.00 American cash.

Price sounds pretty reasonable to me. What do you think?
I took a photo of their shop for you.



flywheel.jpg
 
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