Need Help: Oil leak/crankcase pressure

[Guapo]

I'm new to this board and need help! This past fall I purchased a 1960 Sprite with a 1275 in it. It was recently completely rebuilt by the previous owner (might be on this board: Patrick Casey). He'd driven it less than 500 miles before I purchased it and had no oil leakage issues. What it's doing is it will "puke" oil out the front and back of the engine. The first time it was about a 2/3 of a quart overall. The second time it was maybe a cup. I expect drips but not this. I'm hoping it's something to do with the crankcase pressure as I'm a basic mechanic and not looking forward to having to do major work.

Here is some info on the car (from the PO):

1275 cc Spridget motor with +0.040″ 7cc dished AE/Nural pistons• Pierce Manifolds 5-port alloy head with stock intake/exhaust valves/valve train
• Competition head gasket, silicone valve cover gasket and bypass hose, stainless steel hose clamps
• Cam reground to mild street profile and lifters resurfaced (DeLong Cams spec)
• Compression ratio 10.3:1. Runs well on ethanol-free 89 octane gasoline
• New Tri-metal bearings (mains and rods), new cam/crankshaft thrust washers
• New alloy rear engine plate
• ARP bolts/studs (mains, rods, head, and flywheel)
• New Iwis double row timing chain
• New water pump, new star drive oil pump
• Gerard’s lip style rear main crankshaft seal
• Lower end balanced
• Spin-on oil filter – Mahle OC21
• Distributor rebuilt by Advanced Distributors—advance curve to match cam
• Champion RA8HC plugs
• New fuel tank with POR sealant and new sending unit
• New long center branch exhaust manifold with 1.5″ diameter exhaust pipe
• Cherry Bomb silencer (from UK)
• Rebuilt SU HS2 carbs with Cooper MKI style pancake air filters

• New Fidanza alloy flywheel, new Borg & Beck clutch/disc., release bearing/clips
• Braided stainless steel remote clutch slave cylinder hose and speed bleeder
• Original style downflow radiator with kevlar hoses, stainless steel clamps
• Valvoline VR-1 20-50 wt engine oil




You can see in the pictures that the timing chain canister is vented to the carbs. The valve cover vent is capped. Should I be venting this differently? Oh, and the oil cap is vented. Any help and/or insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Gerard]

What about the 90 degree fitting in the middle of the manifold? I assume that's plugged since it wouldn't run very well otherwise (if at all), so just confirming. Sounds like you still have too much internal pressure and you'd probably be better off using a Smith's PCV off the manifold, rather than the vacuum from the carbs. I'm not sure why things wold suddenly change, but he higher compression pistons may create more pressure than can be alleviated by the draw from the carbs.

 

[Guapo]

The 90 degree fitting is plugged. If I try what you mention, what do I do to the openings on the carbs...plug them? The Smith's PCV valve, do I buy that from Moss? Sorry...new to all of this.

 

[Gerard]

Either find a good used one or the one from Moss. Use a short piece of hose to bridge the two ports on the carbs. I can't guarantee it will be a cure, but it's the first thing I would try. Have you had any feedback from Patrick?

Something to check: Remove the oil filler cap with the engine running and place the palm of your hand over the opening. Is the air rushing out or is there a vacuum?

The 90 degree fitting is plugged. If I try what you mention, what do I do to the openings on the carbs...plug them? The Smith's PCV valve, do I buy that from Moss? Sorry...new to all of this.

 

[Guapo]

Patrick has been great; though, he's not convinced it's crankcase pressure. I wanted to get others to chime in...the council of many. I'll start her up and try the oil cap opening thing and check back in.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Thinking out loud here ... new engine ... could be something leaking around a gasket (timing cover or oil pan). Or maybe the front seal was not centered with the timing cover was installed.

 

[Guapo]

Just checked and when I remove the oil filler cap and put my hand over the opening there is a vacuum.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

Ok ... start checking for loose oil pan bolts and timing cover bolts.

 

[Guapo]

Question...with the oil filler opening pulling a vacuum does that mean that it's not a crankcase pressure issue?

 

[Trevor Jessie]

If it is pulling vacuum at the filler, then crankcase pressure is probably not your problem. UNLESS there is significant ring blow-by at higher rpms.

 

[Guapo]

I just checked for loose bolts. None were loose but needed a bit of tightening. I just snugged them up. Hard as **** to get to the timing chain bolts. I've never had it "puke" while on the lift. It's always happened while out driving, but in the tightening I just did, it showed zero seepage when started and warmed up. I'll try and get out in it this week if it's dry enough. Trevor, I'm in Floyds Knobs, so I have the same weather you do. Thanks for the input. I'll report back once I get a chance to drive it and see how she does. I'm also open to further input.

 

[Trevor Jessie]

At 500 miles on the engine I would think that the rings would have bedded in by now. Is Patrick Casey a local guy?

 

[Guapo]

Patrick is not local....he's really far away unfortunately.

 

[smaceng]

So what happens when you travel down a long grade in a lower gear....lots of vacuum....do you get lots of smoke out the exhaust? If so, that could mean the rings have not set and the high compression is blowing the oil out the seals.
Scott in CA

 

[wgtolhurst]

The clue seems to be that the engine "pucks" a cupful or more of oil quickly, almost like a chamber filling up.

Not overfilling it, are you??

Good luck, I'm sure its something simple, seems like a well thought out engine .

 

[Guapo]

I haven't noticed an smoke out of the exhaust; though, next dry day, I'll go down a long grade in a lower gear and double check.

 

[Guapo]

I don't believe I am; though, I've only topped it off once. The first time it occurred, it was with the oil fill from the previous owner (it arrived with the oil level at the full mark on the dipstick). I topped it off to the full mark (took about 2/3 of a quart). The second time it was a cup or less. I haven't topped since the second occurrence.

The clue seems to be that the engine "pucks" a cupful or more of oil quickly, almost like a chamber filling up.

Not overfilling it, are you??

Good luck, I'm sure its something simple, seems like a well thought out engine .

 

[Jim_Gruber]

And Oil Pan Bolts need to be torqued at like 7 lbs or you will deform and dimple pan and create leaks. See Gerard's Web Site for how PCV is supposed to be routed.

 

[SD Bugeye]

Ok your experiencing way... more oil than me but may be connected.
mine would leave a quarter sized drop of oil every time you shut the car off.
mind you start it up and idle till the cows come home not a drop.
Shut it off quarter size drop
this came from the front of The engine but not the front seal it was from the timing cover .
tightened up the cover and it has pretty much stopped it must sling oil when it's running to a spot that leaks but vacuum is enough to keep it in the case u till it stops.
Im guessing a puddle between the timing cover and the block around the crank -timing gear .
maybe same sort of deal