Need help adjusting valves

[vping]

I have the both Bentley and Haynes and unless I am missing something, they are not very detailed in how to adjust the valves.
To be honest I have never done this before and would rather hear is from the "pros" than guess at it.
I understand the process but do not know where to begin. Where is #1 and how do I know if the #8 valve is 100% open and not 99% open?

 

[DrEntropy]

Practice and observation... It's really "intuitive": #1 is the first from the front. Pull the plugs out and you can turn it (the engine) by hand. Use a SIX point box-end wrench (1/2") for the locknuts on the adjusters, go thru the entire eight in sequence, twice. I use a small chalk mark on the rocker to tell me it's been "done". When there are eight rockers marked, it's a wrap. You'll get so good at this it'll take you fifteen minutes the third time you do it. On the first go, play around with it: as long as you've got the clearances at a minimum of .015" you aren't gonna hurt a thing. It's another chance to "Be One with the Horse."
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[rimzimmer]

There are several ways of adjusting the tappets;
1)The rule of 9
2)When the cylinders are rocking eg: when cylinder 1 is rocking adjust both tappets on number 4 cylinder, the easiest way to do this is to write the firing order on your hand like this 1 3
4 2
when 3 is rocking do 2 etc.

With the valve opening when #1 valve is open (to what you see the be fully open) # 8 will be right on the back of the cam lobe so total acturcy is not needed.

 

[goloch]

I'm certainly not a "pro" but the rule of 9 has worked best for me the couple of times I've done my valves. The first time I did it I turned the engine through the entire sequence a few times to see the top and bottom of travel for each valve. On my car at least, there was a clear point where the valve stopped moving for a second when it was closed. Once I'd gotten comfortable with what those points looked like I went through the entire thing twice and checked it a third time just to be sure.

I think it says in the Haynes manual to be careful about over-tightening the locknuts but I may have taken it a little too literally the first time; the nuts were kicking around under the valve cover after a week or so. Fortunately the car started running horribly so I went over the work I'd done to take a look and was able to catch it before there was any damage.

 

[jlaird]

You are going to get good at this, so take the time to not only do it right but understand what is happening.

Top dead center on #1 = pull the plug. Insert long thin screwdriver, turn enging by hand till the screwdriver is out as far as it will go, rock the engine a bit to determine this.

Oh yea take all the plugs out, is much easier to turn the engine by hand.

 

[Roger]

I have been using rule of 9 on 4-cylinder engines for over 50 years. Still works!
1 is closed when 8 is open
2 is closed when 7 is open
3 is closed when 6 is open
etc.

 

[sparkydave]

Sorry to add to the confusion, but couldn't you also adjust both valves on each cylinder when that cylinder is at firing position? I've followed the rule of nines on the Midget, but I noticed that my Honda's service manual has you adjust the intake and exhaust valves at the same time, which seems like it would take less turning of the engine. Seems like worst case is the valves might end up a little loose, but aren't both valves fully closed when the cylinder is at firing position?

 

[jlaird]

Yes indeedie both valves are closed but the rockers are not fully open, remember lobes on cam are stagered.

 

[DrEntropy]

Fully closed, yes... but not necessarily at the "heel" of the cam lobe.

 

[sparkydave]

Thanks, I figured it was something along the lines of not having the valve lash at a minimum at TDC, and Honda just has you follow a different procedure. Then again, I'm glad there are only 8 valves and two valve cover screws on the Midget, instead of 16 valves, several screws, lots of hoses, 4 coil packs, and a whole bunch of wires on the Honda.

 

[DrEntropy]

Ever see a V-12 Jag? Makes the Honda adjustment look like a kindergarden class /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

 

[jlaird]

Hay Doc, you and I need to stop answering the same questions. We gona screw it up one of these times. Supose it is the Swickley connection, hehe.

 

[sultanoswing]

While we're at it, how do you guys actually turn the engine over? I use a large adjustable wrench/spanner on the front pulley bolt - but it's hard to see and keeps slipping off, as my grazed knuckles will atest!

I've also used the in-gear-rock-it method. On a '71, there doesn't seem to be much room to get a large socket on there, either.

 

[Nunyas]

I've used the in gear+rock the car method. I've also just turned the air pump pulley with my bare hands. Normally, I just turn the air pump pulley with my bare hands, or pull/push on the air pump belt. When that doesn't work, I resort to in gear+rocking the car.

 

[DrEntropy]

Most times I pull the plugs out and hand turn using the fan pulley or whatever belt-driven device gives me the easiest access.

 

[Nunyas]

erm... yeah... pull the plugs too... that's the important part that I left out... I thought that was a given /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[vping]

I bought a 1 5/16" Combination wrench from Sears as they did not have the Box end. I figured if I could not get it in I would bend it with a torch.
The open end actually fits better.
What's another wrench!

 

[vping]

OK let me get this straight. As I turn the engine by hand the rockers go up & down. When Valve #1 - front of car, is open, the rocker should be compressing the spring, in turn. Now adjust valve #8 for proper clearance .015".
Does that sound right.

 

[Bugeye58]

You got it.
Jeff

 

[vping]

Hurray! First time adjusting valves. Felt good and got into a good rhythm. Only 20 minutes but slow & steady. I think I got it down now.